I refinish many of my black rifles as black is horrible under NV.
Anyway, I haven't used Aluma Hyde, but I've been using Norrell's Moly Resin and KG Gunkote for years now. They are thermal cured, which means that you must bake them in the oven. Very tough finish, but not as tough as Cerakote. I never used Cerakote personally, but I've had some firearms finished with Cerakote.
You really want to bake the finish if you want it to last. Anything that is air cured like Duracoat is just Sherwin Williams paint that has been re branded and add a premium in cost.
If you want a rattle can...Aervoe paints are pretty durable. I've been using Aervoe if I want a camo pattern.
Aluma-Hyde II is a very good product and will hold up very well if the surface is prepared correctly and the product is applied correctly. Before we started Cerakoting we were using Aluma-Hyde and were very happy with the results. I still use it for quick touch up applications. I will say it has to be warm and you really have to shake the crap out of it or it will clog the nozzle. It is basically a epoxy paint and does resist gun scrubbers / solvents and oils pretty well. :thumbs:
Since my original post i have done two aluminum lowers with Aluma-Hyde II , used four light coats then cured them in a 300 degree oven for one hour and let cool , so far i am satisfied but only time will test the durability.