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Gluing in inserts in carbon arrows

11K views 20 replies 13 participants last post by  mus42tang 
#1 ·
I'm an old aluminum arrow inserter, so I watched some you tube on doing carbon arrows.
What kind of slower glue do you use? I'm not going to be interested in any quick or "super" glues. Just want glue that works with carbon arrows.
 
#3 ·
I use the epoxy that comes with the shafts I buy. As long as I remember to swab the inside with alcohol after cutting the shaft, Ive had no problems.
 
#4 ·
I just use the same heat glue you would use for aluminum. Just heat the insert and glue and not alot of heat. do not apply heat to carbon. When inserted into the carbon shaft it will heat it alittle but won't damage it. Been using heat glue on carbons for years and never had a problem
 
#5 ·
Yep. Hot melt works fine. Otherwise, use a two part epoxy if you don't want a fast glue. I prefer fast glues. No mess. Never had an insert pull out. With hot melt, you can remove inserts by putting a field point in and heating it til the glue re-melts again. You can remove inserts when using fast glues as well.
 
#7 ·
"I just use the same heat glue you would use for aluminum"

Duh, to me.

Probably my first choice since I've been using it for aluminum arrows for some 20 years - Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Glue. And its recommended for carbon arrows too.
"Ferr-L-Tite Glue is a hot melt cement which can be used for both aluminum and carbon arrows."

And I have some already on hand. Been melting it on the kitchen gas stove that long too. Got that melting system down.

If it works, I don't really like to change. And getting older I really dislike those old new tasks around the house, that you haven't done in over five years.

Thanks for all your options. Just because it's different doesn't make it bad. And I may get around to a new glue. Even my old fletching glue has changed. With today's change, you need backups. Even the aluminum arrow co. sells carbon arrows.
 
#9 ·
Ditto on the Ferr-L-Tite. It works just fine if you rough up the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and clean with alcohol. No need to make it permanent with glue.
V
 
#10 ·
I noticed the duhs coming from me as I see the change from aluminum to carbon.
Have to remember the alcohol swabs. More dust I can see. Especially with me cutting the arrows to length.

Just reviewed my favorite PA archery supply site and the fletching jigs. My aluminum fletching jig doesn't fit the carbon arrows, so a new jig is in order. I think I'll experiment on vanes with the aluminum arrows. I've been using 4" vanes for a long time.
I think I'll depend a lot on the fletcher I've used for over 15 years closing in on 20. I think I'll do some study on them on You Tube. I just don't use it enough.
But I'm getting there.
Thanks again for the help and your recommendations.

And I'll always be a hold out for aluminum or alloy arrows. They worked good with my homemade targets for the past twenty years. Saved some money on them.
 
#12 ·
I always heat the insert in the torch flame and then the glue stick just a tad, smear it on the insert and when inserting into the shaft twist it alittle to distribute the glue evenly. After seating into the shaft I dip into cool water just to ensure the heat doesn't damage the end of the carbon shaft. When cooled this way any extra glue usually peels off pretty easily.
 
#16 ·
I use the benzomatic, just once it's lit, I turn it down to the lowest setting I can get without the flame going out. Key is what Asajoe says--keep a mason jar with about 2" of cool water in it- once you seat the insert, stand it in the jar until your all done with all the arrows. Heat is the main enemy of carbon.
 
#21 ·
"I've never had anything work except 24hr two part epoxy."

I knew that arrows weren't arrows and aluminum wasn't carbon. I have some slower two part epoxy marked down for use on carbon arrows. I'll try some "one part" glue first, as I avoided two part anything like the plague, for short jobs.

I know two part epoxy works, of course. I have a fixed fiberglas fishing rod that broke in half over twenty years ago. A mechanical neighbor fixed it. He cut off the shattered part, put on some two part epoxy on a small thin steel rod, inserted in the two separate parts, and joined it together with some heat shrink wrap. Then let it cured.

The fixed rod is today in the corner waiting for some fishing right now.
Two part epoxy works, I found. And that carbon arrows are perfect, as long as you flex and inspect them each time and before each use. Reminds me cynically of "safety harnesses." I'll remember breaking that fishing rod in half when I flex the carbon arrows.
 
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