Outboard Carb Float Stuck? - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

I noticed a gas slick on the water a few days ago. Then I saw gas dripping out of the front of the motor into the boat. It seems to be coming out of the carb.

Could the float be stuck? What is the best fix if it is the float?

BTW it is an older 10 HP Johnson.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 10:12 AM
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

How old? Does the motor run alright? Does it only drip when you tilt the motor all the way up? You maybe just dripping gas that's in the bowl when you tilt the engine. My old Johnson does the same thing sometimes, especially when it's hot out and I leave the fuel line connected.

Grab a hold of the handle and shake the motor back and forth violently and see it it helps. If all else fails rebuild the carb and install a new float. If it's really old it may have a cork float instead of a plastic one.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 12:44 PM
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

Depends upon how old. Old engines had cork floats that were coated with a sort of varnish. the covering deteriates and the float absorbs fluid. Newerfloats are either metal or plastic and seldom if ever have a problem.

It is probably the needle valve that is the culprit. they get coroded and gum up.
Try hitting the side of the carb with a soft hammer (brass or plastic). that will get them seated. But they still need cleaing. If that fixes it, then try Gum-out in the gas. I run them with a light level of gum-oout and not wide open on the throttle.
If that doesn't work, take carb off and soak in Gum-out. Rebuilding a outboard carb is easy and if you have ever rebuilt a auto carb you will have no problem at all. Early needle valves were brass, then stainless and finally they went to a stailless with a rubber-like tip (it isn't rubber) maybe a polymer/plastic. that is a soft material and it gives what is called a 'soft seat'. these avoid corrosion but do gum up. they can all be cleaned with a hard wood stick and scrap off the gunk. Don't use steel wool on the soft tips.

Certainly the float could be out of adjustment, but I'd not fool with that until a last resort.

Most of the carb parts are available on line, or can be made easily on a small lathe.

Start easy with the tapping.

Let us know how it goes.
What year? take a guess! what color green or white?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

Thanks guys.

It is an old engine. I bought it new in about 1985 and it is white. It had either a 15 HP carb installed or maybe 15 HP jets installed when purchased. This is the first problem I have had with it other than those associated with the older fuel lines.

I will try the tapping. I'll buy a rebuild kit and keep that handy if tapping does not work.

I don't have the motor here to get the exact specs. If I remember right I was told that the 10 and 15 HP carbs were the same except for the jets. Is that right? If I buy a 15 HP rebuild kit will it work in the 10 HP carb?

Thanks again.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

I just checked and it is a 1985. The model # is J10RCO.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

There was a 15 HP carb installed. I just found the original 10 HP carb and it was returned to me in the box the 15 HP carb came in.

The part # on the box is 395912.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 03:52 PM
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

Yep the model says it was build as a short shaft, manual start 10 hp. I figure you know it was common to change them to 15hp for state parks with ahorse power limit (10 hp). that same model number is a give-away to LEOs.

If you are using it on 20 hp lakes or greater then the 15 hp carb is a keeper. If you are on the lake that has not been changed, it is your call.

The needle/float valve is stainless with a plastic tip. The valve and the valve seat are readily available for about $10. Any dealer can get, try to take the part number for your 15 hp carb with you, but I believe the 10 and 15 hp use the same float valve assembly (different jets for sure).

The complete carb rebuild kits for your 85 are also readily available and cost $30-50 depending upon where you buy it.

I'd first try to fee the sticking float valve (tap or Gum-oout) unless you are comfortable taking the carb appart. If you take the carb appart and get the kit, you will get new gaskets; you could have a gasket failure, so new gaskets are good insurance.

Hope this helps, those are good 2 cylinder engines, and should last forever with proper oil and maintaince.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 12:58 AM
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

Try here for your part. http://www.ishopmarine.com Checked for both 9.9 and 15 the same part number for a rebuild kit. $20.77
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

Thanks Guys!

I'll try the hammer trick and then the Gum Out.

BTW I have Seafoam in the tank. Could it have loosened some gunk that clogged it up?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 09:10 PM
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Re: Outboard Carb Float Stuck?

doubt the Seafoam caused it. It can disolve the gaskets and the seals, especially in older motors.

But if you live in the north, there is no need for additives to outboards. merely drain the tank (I pump into the car). And run the engine out of gas before you pull the boat/motor out for the last time every year.
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