Stone/Gravel Question - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Stone/Gravel Question

For the past 27 yrs we've been driving and walking on unimproved ground around the cabin and it was fine. Now that a bunch of grandkids are in the picture we're (the grandparents) looking to get some stone/gravel for a couple places around the cabin for two purposes.

1. Looking to clean up where we do our final turn around coming into the cabin. It has filled in with fine sediment over the years ~5 inches, primarily after some logging operations went through. Sediment washout of the lane is pretty much done and now the turnaround gets rutted and sloppy every rain, nothing major, but enough to be annoying.

2. Nicer/cleaner walking surface around the porch and fire pit

Few questions:
- What is the best gravel size and comp for the turnaround area?

- How much prep for the turnaround area? Should we remove as much the sediment before laying stone, or would the sediment act like a binding agent and hold it in place better.

What size and type stone for around the porch and fire pit? Was thinking pea gravel or possibly small 1/4 crushed?


thanks

jtuck
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 03:05 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

Depends on whats available locally. When we put in our 500yard drive 2 years ago we wanted to use #2 as a base then modified 3/4 on top. Problem was it was a 3 hour turnaround to get the stone and God knows how many triaxle loads that would be. We used local slate and contractor rolled it and it worked out well. the top slate is breaking down to fine stuff and the larger stuff is locked in with the fines. The only drawback is that the aesthetics,it looks a bit rough and very multi-colored.If you use 3/4 modified as the only dressing it will eventually sink so you may want to consider a landscape fabric as the first layer or larger stone base topped by modified

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 03:26 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

Best bet would to place any gravel over geo- textile fabric. You eill need less stone and you will minimize any potholes. I would suggest pea size for fire area as it is easier to walk on. As for parking area, 2 a modified or 2 b should be fine. Not sure if limestone or sandstone is in your area, both will work. Sandstone is cheaper, but a long haul will eat up any savings. Fabric comes in 300' rolls, 10' wide. Use what u need and sell the rest, it is worth the cost.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 04:34 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

I have a different suggestion. Don't use landscape fabric because it will hinder your base and stones will constantly shift. Use large (2- to 3-inch) slag as a heavy and firm base, then cover with 2-B modified limestone so it packs tightly.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 05:24 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

If the ground is flat the use of base stabilization geogrid is a strong option.
On significant inclines the grid will allow the surface to washboard much quicker.
Above is over kill for a camp driveway. The goal is to keep the roadway free of water. Crown the road and give the water somewhere to go.
If you have significant rutting correct the source first. Placing #3 stone would be my option in the ruts. Cover with #2. If this holds for a year or two you could top dress with 2a modified.
Around camp I would place #2 annually until it stopped settling. Again stop the source of why the area gets/holds water.
Good drainage is first priority.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 07:07 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

My .02

Use a skid steer to remove the sediment build up in your driveway. If you are worried about sediment coming back down the driveway you can install a "thank you ma'am" slanted to the low side of the road. After removal of the sediment make sure that your subbase sits at a minimum 4" below desired finished grade. Next place a woven geotextile fabric (should only need a 4-6 mil rating) most rolls are 12-15 feet wide. If your width is more than that make sure to overlap your pieces at least a foot. The edges of the fabric should be lapped over the edges of the excavation. Fill with a 2A modified stone. Install level with finished grade and then use a jumping jack to compact (this will tighten up the stone and the modified (screenings) will fill in the voids). Lastly, install a light layer of 2B stone over top. The 2B will be larger enough to keep out of most vehicle tires but small enough that they aren't uncomfortable to walk on.

In your firepower area, I would sprinkle with a 1B stone however without geo under that stone you will have plant material infiltration and possible puddles during heavy rain storms.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 02:47 AM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

If affordable use the woven geo-tex cloth. The purpose is separating the stone from the soil. If you have anytop soil remove it first apply the cloth. Im in Md. and we have different numbers for stone than Pa. if its soft you a 2" ballast then cap off with crusher run or what you call a modified. The modoified will compact and that is what your looking for is compaction. Most of the time if done like this you wont have weeds growing up thru. A amaller sone on bottom with out cloth you will eventually loose it being pushed down in. A clean drain stone will just roll off and not give any compaction. The fabric im talking about come in a roll 12' wide I buy being a contractor for .10 a sq'. Ive seen a lot of people especially in the country area spread shale, pretty soon you have more mud since shale or slate is actually clay.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 11:16 AM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

We did our driveway, turnaround and fire pit area with #2 crusher run....when that gets wet, it turns to concrete! Very happy with it.

Are we at camp yet?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 12:58 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

Dealing with limestone, "crusher run" or modified is usually the best choice. Or was years ago when I worked with it on a regular basis? 3A modified base, if the ground was a bit soft. 2A modified on firmer ground.

When I expanded our driveway at home some years ago, used 2RC for the base, which is basically modified with more limestone chips, than dirt. I don't think any of our local quarries make 2RC now?

2B limestone for a driveway? Not so much, as it continues to roll around, not compact. Broom limestone dust into it, slightly better - until someone spins a wheel in it.

Our camp driveway in Tioga Co. is steep, so it's hard to keep gravel in place, even with small diversion ditches to redirect water during heavy rains. The lower section was always soft due to it being a wet area and heavy rains tended to wash any gravel down onto the twp. road.

Four years ago the twp. boys filled the lower section ruts with some nasty, rocky stuff, when they were working on the road. It hasn't rutted since then.

I thanked 'em, even if I did have to level it out myself. Filled the voids in with finer sandy gravel and it's knitted together pretty well now.

Some folks' learnin' curves just look like circles...3A Camp/also hunt 4B
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 11:21 PM
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Re: Stone/Gravel Question

if it were me i'd put #3's down first, then put 2A or 2RC on top of it. most quarry's i haul out of has 2RC. it is a bit cheaper than 2A.
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