Metal roof knowledge - The Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Metal roof knowledge

Going to put a metal roof on the camp and garage soon. Can anyone school me on what to avoid and what is best.

So far this is what I have been told; Standing seam is better in the long run. The paint is what is warranteed.

If using standard screw and gasket, screw on the peaks. (some say in the valleys)

Never messed with the stuff before, but it doesn't seem very difficult to install. A friend roofed his camp in a weekend himself with the standard screw and gasket metal roofing.

This will be the 3rd time these roofs have been redone and am hoping the last.

Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 02:46 PM
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Prior to owning an insurance agency and seeing plenty of roof claims,I was a roofer.Take it for what it's worth but I would never put corrugated metal on my house.It may be fine for a garage,camp,shed etc.I have one on my barn and it started to leak after about 8 years.Here's the problem with it.As a roof heats up and cools down,the metal expands and contracts,ovaling out the holes.The rubber gaskets eventually dry rot and you'll get leaks.I will also say this after looking at more bad roofs than I care to remember.The new fiberglass shingles are also junk and it's nearly impossible to get the manufacturer to honor the warranty.Don't ever expect to put 30 yr shingles on and expect them to last 30 years.Standing seam is the way to go because all of the fasteners are covered.It is more expensive and not every house looks good with one however.The new rage around here is metal and most people go with cheap Amish steel.The vast majority of them I've seen leak and I deal with it every day.You can get a heavier gauge corrugated metal and that's the way to go if you go with corrugated.Not all metal is the same.I have a customer who's company does nothing but standing seam.They refuse to use shingles and actually form their own standing seam with a machine similar to a gutter machine.I'm not expert on metal but they screw it right down to the roof and sometimes put bubble wrap under it.They claim that you don't want any air space,which is exactly the opposite of what most contractors do.If you have an air space,like most screwed onto purlins do,you will get condensation.The metal roof in my barn sweats like crazy.These guys also spray rubber on metal roofs.A good bit of their time is spent spraying these cheap Amish metal roofs that started leaking.The just sprayed the metal roof on my office that was leaking.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 05:50 PM
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I have no experience with roofing. I don't know how the job is done, or who did it, but I stayed in a cabin one time with a metal roof(no attic). Every time it rained it sounded like a freight train. I just so happened to be there when acorns were dropping and was woken up multiple times through the night. I don't know if you're supposed to insulate it for sound or something but that experience alone turned me off to them.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 07:05 PM
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Love the sound of rain on the roof at night.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcus99 View Post
I don't know if you're supposed to insulate it for sound or something but that experience alone turned me off to them. I just so happened to be there when acorns were dropping and was woken up multiple times through the night.
Most times that's what happens on a lathed steel roof where the steel is only screwed to the lathes, nothing in between the seams but the steel. That method is generally used on barns, sheds and etc, not living quarters.

When we installed the new 24x30 steel 5/12 pitch roof on our shack eight years ago, we sheeted the rafters with 1/2" OSB, felt paper then screwed it down with screws/rubber washers. Yeah, the hickory nuts make some racket but with the OSB-felt they made more of a small thump than beer spill'n a crack.
One advantage of a steel roof unlike shingles, rolled roofing or rubber snow slides off it like its greased. I've already had three foot piles of it on the sides of the joint, the roof bare.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 07:52 PM
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We did our camp 19 years ago with metal roofing and never had a leak. I put 1x3 furion strips on the old roof before installing the new. I used self tapping screws with the rubber o-ring. " Expensive" Pre drilling holes worked best for me.Metal comes in different thickness! Thicker the better. You can get your roof cut to any length "Almost" Mine was 18ft. Add for overhang. Be very careful! Roof gets hot,slippery,and sharp. It does fade over time. Best $ spent. Standing seam must be a newer product? From what I hear it covers the screw heads and prevents leaking.

Last edited by 59Willys; 07-27-2019 at 07:19 AM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 12:48 PM
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I just had this conversation with my neighbor upstate and he used to build metal pole barns. He said the roof will last a lifetime but after about 15 years the screws start to rust and that is where the leaks start

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:44 AM
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Ill second DCE's comments, it is a shame seeing the number of people with standard corrugated metal roofs being put overtop of existing shingles. On top of the screws being guaranteed to leak overtime you also have the condensation issue which will rot the furring strips and potentially the old roof deck as well. If your putting metal on, go with standing seam.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:17 PM
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screws go in the valleys and not in the peaks. Here is an installation guide for Fabral.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 10:09 PM
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I usually do a couple metal roofs a year.
I've worked with different brands but prefer Fabral by a mile
You must lathe over existing shingles. I have either used 1x4 or 2x4 never firring strips.
Lathe is always screwed with 3 inch torx head deck screws, Try your best to hit rafters.
Lathe is 24inches on center
I usually use a 6 inch board for the top row, to better accept the ridge cap. Centered 7 inches down from peak.
1 1/2 inch screws in the flat along ribs. 2inch screws for ridge and gable trims
Keep screws straight/perpendicular to roof
Don't over tighten screws,as soon as rubber washer begins to compress. Stop.
Vent pipes, flues, and dormers!are the biggest problem. Use proper boots and flashing
Use foam filler strips bottom and top. Or vented ridge on top
The make a roll of foam filler for over/under angled cuts...valleys
Around flues and vents I use 1x12 or 2x12 to fill in along sides between lathe. You never know where you may need a screw there.
Don't saw or drill roofing, it will rust for sure
If you need help getting holes started use a hammer and awl
Layout screw holes on every sheet to keep them straight
Always use snow guards. I prefer the channels over individual snow birds. Much cheaper
Snow guards go on second row of lathe not the first/bottom.
Get it started straight. I usually snap a reference line on first row of lathe then sq off it. 6-8-10
I usually put a mark on side of sheet to align with reference line to keep overhang the same.
Hope to have helped instead of confuse
You can pm me with questions if you like
I'm sure I missed stuff, I will add if I think of it
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