Dormer - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Dormer

Has anyone added a dormer to get extra space on a second floor? We have an attic space, and I was thinking of adding a dormer the length of the one side of the cabin to make that two new bedrooms and a 1/2 bath. I was just curious if anyone has done this, and what the expense was?

I am living the dream! I guess.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 03:32 PM
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Are you thinking about a shed roof dormer (not a gable type) ?

Are trusses used now ? If so, that could be a problem, or just add more to the cost. If just new rafters from a ridge "beam", shouldn't be too difficult

It may be less expensive to start the sides of the dormer 2' - 4' in from each end to eliminate modifying the edge of the existing roof. Also consider what the new slope / pitch of the roof on the dormer will be, and will it be adequate.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 05:30 AM
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as above have said just about anything can be done its just a matter of cost.

as plinker said ridge and rafter would be a lot easier and cheaper and certainly staying in from the end walls would make it a lot easier.


if the current build is ridge and rafter style with a flat 1st floor ceiling its likely that the ceiling joists are not going to be of proper size to

support floor load.



if there is not a staircase to the attic space you will loose some 1st floor space to accommodate the new staircase.



make sure there is adequate egress windows and escape rope ladders upstairs.



I would also suggest hard wired smoke and or smoke/co units that are tied to units on the first floor.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 06:15 PM
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Having built both, a shed roof style dormer is generally quicker/easier to build than a gable one. Plus a zillion for not running it out to the end of the existing roof, as mentioned above. You can cut out trusses to add a dormer, IF you or someone that can help, knows how to properly redo the original truss bracing to maintain integrity.

If, for example your original ceiling joists are 2x6s, there are ways to increase their strength to support a floor. Again, consult someone that knows how to do that correctly.

If you don't plan on using that new " second floor" space regularly (say maybe just for a week or less, during deer season) and don't want to lose the space on the first floor that a stairway needs, can always use a pull down for access. They come with their own set of issues and aren't practical if the new space is going to be used often.

If I was younger, I'd tear off most of the ridge/rafter roof on the original 12x20 part of our cabin and add more space. It wasn't supposed to be the permanent camp when built on piers in 1980, so it's a 4 pitch with not much insulation in the 7'6" ceiling. The newer and much bigger part of the shanty, has higher, open beam ceilings and is much nicer.

Best wishes.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 11:23 AM
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See if these pictures come through
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Last edited by CROW MASTER; 01-08-2019 at 11:25 AM.
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