Poly-Choke question - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Poly-Choke question

I bought a older Franchi 12ga auto loading shotgun that has a poly-choke on the end of the barrel. It has markings for extra full down to slug. My question is do you screw the choke down as far as it will go for the extra full and then back it off for the other chokes as needed? It will spin about 5 full rotations before screwing off. Does anyone have any experience with these?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 04:27 PM
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I assume you mean the front part of the choke will screw off. Poly-Chokes are 2 pieces, a rear piece that is tightened to the end of the threaded barrel with a wrench and the forward piece that is a sleeve that slips over the front and is twisted by hand to control the amount of constriction. Excuse me if you already know this, just want to be sure you are not dealing with a choke that is seized up that you are perceiving as one piece.

The entire choke assembly should not be able to be twisted by hand. If so, the rear portion needs to be tightened before trying to twist to different chokes. They make specialized wrenches for this. You can use a pipe wrench with precautions as to not damage the finish.

If after tightening the back half (if need be)and you can't twist the front half, the choke has seized. Penetrating oil and elbow grease should resolve the situation.

If it is only the front half of the tube that moves when twisting, good news, no seized choke. There is a wrench notch on the rear half of the tube . This notch is what you use for an indexing indicator for which choke you have selected. Simply align the notch with the desired choke inscribed on the front half.

It's been quite a few years since I have used a polychoked gun, but that's what I can recall. Good shooting.

Last edited by simoncool; 08-12-2018 at 04:42 PM.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info simoncool.

The front part is all that turns. I wanted to know if I screw it all the way in until it "bottoms out" that this would be the extra full choke setting. Then to get the other choke setting I would screw it out until the index indicator is at the proper mark for the intended choke?

Thanks again
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 04:48 PM
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No, just align the extrafull mark with the wrench notch or indicator. Then advancing to the next marked choke gives you that choke. Tightening beyond extra full can damage the choke, maybe even the barrel. At least that's what I remember. You would think they would be able to construct them with a stop to allow over constriction, but if I remember correctly, they didn't. I remember my dad telling me to never over tighten the choke.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 06:00 PM
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I would screw it all the way down, don't force it, like Simoncool said. It shouldn't go much past full. Then back it out to full, modified, etc. This way you know the guy before you didn't leave it half unscrewed. IMHO.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35 whelen View Post
I would screw it all the way down, don't force it, like Simoncool said. It shouldn't go much past full. Then back it out to full, modified, etc. This way you know the guy before you didn't leave it half unscrewed. IMHO.

^ This ^


I have one on my dad's old Ithaca pump and that's what I do. I routinely completely unscrew the front part of the Polychoke off because that's the only way it fits in my cabinet. Also found this on a shotgun forum:


Quote:
I have an old Rem Mod 8 pump gun that belonged to my grandfather. Originally it had a 30" Full choke barrel, but heavy use between 1925 and 1948 shot out the choke. He sent it off to PolyChoke, they cut off 2" or so and put on the PolyChoke.

I inherited it in 1980 and found the instruction card for the PC. It said to screw down the choke to a full stop and back off to the first setting for FULL. Each click back changes to IM, Mod, LM, IC, Skeet and finally Cyl.

Just for fun, I put it on the pattern plate and low and behold the patterned opened up just like you would suspect.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-13-2018, 11:20 AM
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Some of the guns I had poly chokes on shot real good, they were great for hunting, and back when lead was legal used it for ducks over decoys, and it was great for that. Had one though that would shoot heavy loads way off to the left. Shot light loads straight but for heavy hunting loads was useless, did shoot good, with dove loads. Have one now on an 1100 barrel that has been altered to allow it to adjust tighter, however it is no match for a screw in turkey choke. A few years back I bought one of the trueglo titanium screw in chokes that was adjustable, It shot open patterns when screwed open, but I could never get a good full choke pattern with the lads I was shooting. The adjustable choke may not be pretty to some, but when they work as they are suppose, to they are great.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:54 PM
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poly chokes on old classic are ugly and ruin a sleek design
they look like an over sized proboscis hanging from the front

but they work great.
I have a prewar 1941 Ithaca m37R
it had a lot of custom work done ,not a money gun , rather one someone bought as a field gun , but then had it made like they wanted
extensive checkering, ivory mid bead and a factory poly choke option.
I bought it despite the poly choke...

I can choose any number of Ithaca's to carry on any day,but only 1 has a poly
its my go to gun.
i'm constantly changing chokes as I move from cover to cover
and Ive bagged many a bird because of it

I wouldn't desecrate an old gun with one,
but I wont pass up on one someone already has

Da hawk ate my baby!!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 12:26 AM
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I've had a few polys, new and old, and they turn all the way down to xtra. That is your tightest choke, then back all the way out to slug or cyl, plus one past for open. Any more open than that will not matter except to risk damage. With a dial caliper you can measure and will probably come up with about .700" at xtra for a 12 ga., and .730/.735 at one past slug/cyl. .700" is only about a 0.025-.030 crimp type constriction There is no parallel section, it just tightens up the collet fingers, so they don't shoot real tight even cranked all the way down. Not like a nice old fixed full choke that is 0.690 or tighter.



I've never noticed a point of impact change, but the screw-in polys can be a pain with wanting to back out the choke threads (ie, remchoke/winchoke/truchoke) when you are only trying to open the pattern a bit. Also, the screw in polys will not necessarily index with the indicator on top in a certain gun. And of course, it is possible to shoot the choke off some "fixed" polys...seen my dad do that with one. Silver solder job on a model 12.

Last edited by FullandFuller; 08-17-2018 at 12:28 AM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys.

Did some checking and found out the gun was made in 1967 but do not know if the poly-choke was factory installed or aftermarket.

I had another question. Do you think it would be ok to shoot steel shot though the choke?
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