Arrow Recommendation - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow Recommendation

SO I've been shooting Carbon Express Mayhem 250's now for quite a few years. I originally bought a dozen, but over the years of splitting arrows while practicing, busting arrows from deer, etc... i'm down to a half dozen or so, and out of those I have maybe 2 or 3 that are in "hunting" condition.

IN otherwords, might be time to start looking into buying new arrows.. So what i'm wondering is, is there any benefit to going to the 350gr arrows or say a different "model" of Carbon express? (Pile drivers, blue streaks, etc)...

I shoot a Mathews MQ1, 62lb draw with 100gr QAD exodus.

"I've never seen a wild thing feel sorry for itself..."
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 12:31 AM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

If you're comfortable with what you're shooting, I don't see a reason to switch, especially if it has worked for you in the past. Realistically, most shots in PA are going to be 30 yards and under, so any arrow will work as long as its spined properly for your bow (Check arrow selection charts to make sure.) If you're not shooting competition and only out to 30-50 yards max. while bowhunting here in PA, your arrow is basically nothing more than a broadhead delivery system and any arrow (Spined for your bow weight and length) will work.

If you're only going to use that arrow to practice in the back yard and shoot deer at a max. of 40-50 yards here in PA, it makes no sense to dump money into the more expensive line of arrows. The performance from say a BEAMAN ICS BOWHUNTER arrow (about $5-7 per arrow) isn't going to differ much from an arrow that runs double that price in a 20-30 yard treestand shot or on the backyard range.

I shoot the Easton A/C/C's which run about $180 a dozen, but that's because I hunt all over the place for different game and plan to continue to do so. Also, I like the added security of an aluminum core. We've all seen those pictures of carbon arrows breaking and impaling a persons hand. With an aluminum core, I don't have to worry about that happening, just the occasional exploding nock will get you if you're not careful. (Always check your nocks for cracks and weakness) they get overlooked a lot and nobody thinks about them until it causes you to dry fire your bow. (String gets released, nock breaks, that causes your arrow to loose connection with the string and the bow gets dryfired.) Done it 2x. Once with my regular hunting rig and once with my bowfishing rig. Not fun.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 10:09 AM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

If you're having good success with broadhead flight then I'd say you can stick with 250 spine.

I don't hunt turkeys because I want to, I hunt turkeys because I have to.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 02:36 PM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

I agree that most arrows in the correct spine for your set-up will work fine for hunting. Probably 95% of bowhunters aren't consistant enough to tell the difference between .003 and .006 straightness shafts. When I worked at the shop alot I was always amused at the people that would spend a ton of money on the latest and straightest arrow shafts when I knew from experience most of them couldn't shoot worth a lick!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 04:35 PM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Asajoe1
I agree that most arrows in the correct spine for your set-up will work fine for hunting. Probably 95% of bowhunters aren't consistant enough to tell the difference between .003 and .006 straightness shafts. When I worked at the shop alot I was always amused at the people that would spend a ton of money on the latest and straightest arrow shafts when I knew from experience most of them couldn't shoot worth a lick!
agree with this not to many people can tell the difference but if u get the .006 in full length bare shafts u can cut a few inches off of the back and it should tighten up alittle....if ur looking to switch arrows i would take a look at blood sport arrows, i think they will be my next arrows
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 05:01 PM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

I am shooting a gold tip now, but I really miss my Easton ACC. I bought a dozen of them back in 1999, finally wearing them out last year. ACC's are tough as nails and hit hard!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 04:01 PM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

Still using aluminum in my compound. They just keep on working and working.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 01:25 PM
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Re: Arrow Recommendation

Going from a 250 to 350 will increase the stiffness which may be too much for your setup. You would need to either increase poundage or head weight to get them to tuned due to a stiffer spine. What you get from that is more KE. You'll lose some speed but will have more energy than a lighter faster arrow at further distances.

Your using a fixed head, so unless you plan on switching to mechanicals and heading out west to hunt big game, you might not really see the benefit.

Or you could be like me and just like to tinker in the off season to see if i can get it to shoot just a little better. Been shooting CX 450s for years but really want to go Eastons. Problem i have is my setup is heavy, 80 lbs, 30 inch draw. I need a heavy spined arrow. A Easton .300 spine with less than 10 gr/inch will not tune unless its cranked below 75lbs, but why have 80lb limbs and shoot below 75. However, i believe with the the FMJs having a .300 spine, but being 13 gr/in, ill be able to shoot them just fine. I'm also switching from Grizz Tricks to the Exodus next year. So come February, I'll have new string and new arrows, to try and get tuned in for turkey.

RIP Tuff 98-11, So many hunts, so many good times!
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