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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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buss cable stop adjustment question

Hello all. Last year i bought a hoyt faktor 30 with z5 cam and a half set at 29" draw and have it dialed in real good. I like the bow a lot but one thing i just haven't gotten used to is how the thing wants to rip my arm off if i creep too far forward before the shot. For the most part i have it under control but every once in a while it would get me and jerk my arm forward. Today i was tinkering around with the bow and noticed the split yoke buss cable stop has 5 adjustment holes, (A,B,C,D, and E). I dont know what each number represents but I moved the cable stop from the b to the c hole in the cam just to see if the forward creep would go away, and surprisingly it did. I had it out shooting today and so far have not noticed any change in impact point or accuracy with field points, i have not shot the broad heads though. Would this slight change from the b to the c hole affect my timing of the cams or accuracy with the broad heads in any way? Did this move lengthen the draw length slightly? I'm kind of new at this stuff and any knowledge you guys could throw my way would be appreciated. thanks.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Re: buss cable stop adjustment question

Ok i think i may have figured this out. Looks like the top cam module is RK-3C-TR. Does this mean that the buss cable stop should have been in the c hole all along?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: buss cable stop adjustment question

Just watched a youtube vid on this subject. Looks like they had the cable stop in the wrong hole when they sold me the bow. I have the number 3 cams with the c mods which are supposed set the draw length at 29" Cable stop was in the b position this entire time, almost a year, and i'm surprised i didnt have any accuracy issues. Im a little disappointed with my local bow shop for this and several other reasons. I would still like to hear from you bow guys as to whether this will affect my timing now or broad head accuracy. its raining so i cant go out and shoot it right now.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 10:09 PM
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Re: buss cable stop adjustment question

Rut Warrior- glad you found this, but now for the bad news. Your bow may not be in time, and probably not tuned as well as it could be. What has happened is you have actually been shooting the bow at 65% letoff rather than the 75% let off it was designed for. Hence, it felt like it was pulling you out of your socks when you let down. Without a drawboard, you probably cant watch the upper and lower stops as you get to full draw. As best as you can, have someone look at your bow at full draw to see if the top and bottom draw stops are at the same point. Many people like the top stop to hit about a credit card thickness before the bottom stop. Personally, I heel the grip a little more and like them to hit exactly the same. Another common adjustment is to remove the little rubber bumper in the top string stop, then retime the bow. It gives the bow a much harder back wall. Not too late to take the bow to a good Hoyt Dealer and get this checked.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: buss cable stop adjustment question

Well the bow is definitely not in time or tune anymore. I didn't put it on a draw board but i had a friend draw it slowly as i watched and the top cam stop is hitting well before the bottom one. Probably a 1/4" before. Its not shooting as good as i originally thought either. Its shooting high right. I put the buss cable stop back in the B position and the bow is shoots great again. I may just leave it in this position for the rest of the season and get it fixed after. The bow is definitely more difficult to keep at the full draw position but i think i will manage. Thanks for your help.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 11:16 PM
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Re: buss cable stop adjustment question

Up to you- it's a 10 minute fix. If you were up here I would recommend Beikirchs hunting supply in Elkland. They do great work. You probably need about 2 twists in your control cable, and one or two turns in one of your yokes. No big thing if you have a press. Best of luck.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 04:19 AM
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Re: buss cable stop adjustment question

I traded my faktor in today joe. I realized 30" bows just aren't for me. I picked up a carbon spyder zt 34. I originally wanted a nitrum but they didn't have a right hand 34 in stock. They told me they had one in stock on the phone though so they offered to discount a nice chunk off the spyder for my trouble.
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