Has anyone built the Kibler Colonial ?
What was your thoughts on this kit?
How difficult was it? ,I have done factory kits
I see there is a 3 month wait on it.
I think that is about as simple of a kit you are going to find in a quality gun. The only other option would be to go with it in the white. Keep us updated.
Loggy, I think my wife would react unfavorably if I were to bring the makings of another flintlock in the house. I do drool a bit when I look over a Kibler kit advertisement. However,one of these would compliment your PA Mountain Rifle extremely well, and it would be a fine way for you to add another hobby.
My son, Ken, remembers you telling him on our wild boar hunt about hobbies. It was something about two hobbies need to be your limit at any one time if you intend to give them your full attention and enjoyment. It remains a wise bit of advice.
Berks......don't get me thinkin like you did back in 2008 at Dixon's Gunbuilder's Show which led me to Brad Emig, Gunbuilder which led me to my 54 Cal PA Mountain Rifle!!:smile2: I remember your Son Ken very well & some of our discussions. He's a fine young man coupled with a monster wild boar killer taking all honors in downing that HUGE boar!!
This Kibler Kit really has caught my eye!!:smile2:
Kibler has since refined them even more which is incredible.
At this point, if you open a jar of finish and put it on the box and toss it down a flight of steps, it'll be put together and finished at the bottom.
No joke...it's very user friendly. Before his latest refinements, I had like 4 hours TOPS to a functional rifle. That was taking my time. Barrel was draw filed and liner installed in that time...I didn't clean up the brass or lock..just what needed done to properly finish inletting. Most parts, once cleaned up, fit perfectly.
They also now ship with his new lock....
I have it as well....it's incredible. I can't wait to put it in a rifle. It's extremely smooth. Sparks like a champ. Crazy well balanced..doesn't jar abruptly and seems like flint life will be excellent.
The finished rifle is very refined. Enough wood to carve and finish but nothing extra. Mine is in 58cal. Nice and balanced. Seems to point and handle well. The architecture and lines are great. Very nice looking and feeling rifle.
I need to clean up the brass and carve and finish mine soon...she needs to go-to someone that will enjoy her.
Loggy, if your eye does get caught, we'll all look forward to photos as a Kibler kit becomes an flintlock heirloom! :smile2::wink2:
Seriously, I feel anyone remotely interested in putting together a rifle for the first time, should consider Kibler's kits as a wonderful place to start. And, the hours needed to complete the project wouldn't be the hours and hours required to complete a rifle from a box full of parts, and a barrel inletted stock. Berks
Yes it does and the locks are now drilled and tapped, and as said before Jim Kibler is very helpful and will answer all your question.
The touch hole is drilled and tapped also ,but you will install the White Lighting your self.You can get it with or without a patch box ,the cost is the same, he has Walnut, cherry and 3 grades of Maple.
Sure does. Pin holes are drilled in the stock. Not sure if he's drilling the lugs now or not...I am pretty certain he is drilling and taping his locks now.
Sight dovetails are cut. Pin holes for all the mounts are drilled. Again not sure the brass mounts are drilled...I don't think he's drilling the metal just because there is always a little variation in castings and wood differs based on conditions. 1/16" drill bit will take care of those. Clamp the part in it's position and send the big through the hole in the wood.
The dovetails and such might need a touch with a file. Usually once the castings are cleaned up, everything went right into place.
I was blown away at how well everything fit. To CNC wood inlets that well is incredible.
About the most "work" is cleaning the brass castings and draw filing the barrel ....but it's all easy. The castings are pretty dang clean...just need polished up as the surface isnt smooth. Not a rough sand casting but the surface needs cleaned up.
The barrel is a Rice and pretty clean...I have a good file that makes draw filing very quick and easy but you could likely get by with a sanding block and paper depending on what kinda finish you want.
I built a Jim Kibler rifle several years ago and I had a terrific experience from beginning to end. The support from him was outstanding and the gun shoots very well.
Met Jim at Dixons Gun Makers few years ago; class all the way and a great product.
Would build another without any reservations.
About a 1.5yrs ago I built my Leman rifle from parts obtained from Track of the Wolf. I started with a "pre-shaped" stock.....which is not the same as a "pre-inletted" stock. The pre-shaped stocks are just close to the shape of the gun. All inletting and thinning of the wood must be done. I'm quite certain I have over 400 hours in the gun build. The parts cost me about $500 over a three year time period.
So.....now you have to ask yourself, can I save over 300 hours of my time putting together a really quality.....precise inletted rifle that will not only shoot exceptionally.....but look like a professional built.....or put in the 300 hours....and still have all of your "build mistakes" in the final product.
I would buy the Kibler hands down. Now....don't get me wrong....I love the rifle that I built. It hangs over my fireplace and looks wonderful. But ask yourself what your time is worth.....lets see......$500\300 = $1.67\hr. Yeah....my time is worth more than that.
FWIW
Oh...and IMHO get the fancy grade maple for the stock. My rifle is semi-fancy and it looks nice.....but for a Kibler I'd go with the 100% fancy.
Mauser, that is an amazing stock of curly maple! I can't imagine a wrist with tighter curl. When the finish coats are done, please share a photo of that rifle, especially the butt stock.:thumbs::thumbs:
If we ever get to shoot or somethin’, you’ll get to see the curl in the stock Allen put on my 62-cal deer rifle.
It’s curly!
That aside...
If you really want to learn to build a rifle (OP), the Kibler kit may not teach you a ton.
If you want a really nice gun and don’t want to build more and are content with that one gun, the Kibler is almost surely your shortest route from point A to point B.
Will do Berks! That curl is amazing. I love how it fades put into big firey curl towards the butt. I'm afraid my carving will "get lost" a bit....but I will see what I can do.
That stock was actually a "reject" because there's a couple Ambrosia spots. Jim and I think it'll finish out just fine. I couldn't pass it up.
I bought it as a bit of a study piece when I was shaping my first plank. It definitely helped. Served it's purpose. Now I need to finish it and find it a loving home.
Loggy, the fowler "kit" I had Brad put together for me needed me (a lefty) to inlet the lock and side plate. The inletting for the barrel, butt plate, trigger guard, trigger, ramrod, and pipes was completed, but not fitted metal to wood as well as I'd hoped and expected. I think I need to glass bed the barrel because the fore stock flexes in the area of the rear entry pipe. A trip to Dixon's is in my near future. It required many hours to complete. (40+).
The Kibler kit would be a "piece of cake" from what I read, but time and care must be considered and applied to have the resulting rifle something of which to be content and proud.:thumbs:
Wow! Watched three hours of his youtube assembly videos last night. I couldn't stop watching and had to finish them all. Looks like a great kit and a fine quality rifle as a result. One of these is now on my wish list. Thanks for sharing the info.
A word of warning, dpms. If you go this route, Pandora's box will be opened, and a whole new collection of flintlocks will result. Don't ask me how I know!lain:
I think there is a very simple answer to you question. First off you will need 2. A .32 or .36 for small game and a .50 or .54 for big game. Get the first one assembled in the white, so you can get an idea of what is needed to then assemble your kit for the second gun:grin2: Problem solved!
Question for a flintlock newbie. Under "rifling" it says square bottom, round bottom, or smooth bore. I know what smooth bore refers too but I am not sure about square and round bottom rifling? Also, can someone explain the advantages or disadvantages of a carbon and stainless touch hole liner
Square bottom is the more accurate then round.
the stainless touch hole will last longer, but will not take a bluing and will not rust.
If you look under Kibler question section he explains about the rifling and other thing.
To me the rifling is a matter of one person choices.
dpms
And only $39. to ship it in a nice well packed wooden box.
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