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post #1 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Flintlock Tips

I thought it would be cool to have a thread that lists some of the tricks of the trade of flintlock hunting. I've listed four below. Some of these tips, I got from others on this site. I hope they don't mind me re-posting them.

Please add your tricks and tips as well!

Place a toothpick in the touchhole until you're ready to prime. This will keep out mositure and keep the hole from getting clogged.

Take a candle and AWAY FROM ANY POWDER OR YOUR GUN, take a lighter and heat up the bottom end of it. When you get the wax half melted, take some of this wax and put in on the bottom side of your frizzen. When you close the frizzen over your primer powder, it will create a waterproof layer on top of the primer powder and keeps moisture out.

A visine bottle makes a good primer canister...

Place a balloon over your barrel in bad weather to keep moisture out. You can even shoot with it on and it shouldn't change your impact point.

Here's a few to get us started. Please join in!

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post #2 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 01:53 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

powder before ball.
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post #3 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Flintlock Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by Curly Maple
powder before ball.



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post #4 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:01 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

Go to your local Pharmacy and pick up a small box of those alcohol pads. You know, the ones that are individually wrapped that people use to give themselves an injection.

Once you have fired a shot (Let's assume you have missed....even though we all know your such an eagle-eye ). Use one of these alcohol patches to wipe down your frizzen pan, and your frizzen, and your flint. There is nothing (and I mean NOTHING) that will attract moisture faster than powder residue!

So, if you have powder residue on your gun from....oh say a early missed shot....and you reload, in half-an-hour that powder residue will "suck up" a bunch of the moisture in the air....and it could very well cause your next attempted shot to be a mis-fire. (Ask me how I know?)

Now, if your reloading quick for another shot....don't wipe it down...just reload. But once it get quiet again, dump your pan powder, wipe it all down with a patch, and then re-powder your pan.

The alcohol will evaporate in a few seconds. I can tell you since I started doing this, I've had very few "clicks" on my second shots....after my first "misses."

You can also use the alcohol patch to run a quick swab down the barrel if it's getting a bit fouled. Again, it will dry in seconds and allow you to reload quickly.

Dave

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post #5 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:13 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

Keep your grubby fingers off the frizzen, oil and dirt from your fingers will foul a frizzen!

Be sure your flint is tight in the jaws

Change or knap your flint after practice shooting so when that buck of a lifetime steps out you get a good clean spark.

Tie a very small piece of oiled buckskin in the channel where the stock meets the barrel on the muzzle side of the lock. Keeps the water from running down the groove into the lock.

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post #6 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:31 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveT
Go to your local Pharmacy and pick up a small box of those alcohol pads. You know, the ones that are individually wrapped that people use to give themselves an injection.

Once you have fired a shot (Let's assume you have missed....even though we all know your such an eagle-eye ). Use one of these alcohol patches to wipe down your frizzen pan, and your frizzen, and your flint. There is nothing (and I mean NOTHING) that will attract moisture faster than powder residue!

So, if you have powder residue on your gun from....oh say a early missed shot....and you reload, in half-an-hour that powder residue will "suck up" a bunch of the moisture in the air....and it could very well cause your next attempted shot to be a mis-fire. (Ask me how I know?)

Now, if your reloading quick for another shot....don't wipe it down...just reload. But once it get quiet again, dump your pan powder, wipe it all down with a patch, and then re-powder your pan.

The alcohol will evaporate in a few seconds. I can tell you since I started doing this, I've had very few "clicks" on my second shots....after my first "misses."

You can also use the alcohol patch to run a quick swab down the barrel if it's getting a bit fouled. Again, it will dry in seconds and allow you to reload quickly.

Dave
wow - never thought of that - thanks for the great tip. Off to CVS over lunch
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post #7 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:34 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

I take an 8" to 10" piece of leather boot lace, and attach a homemade brass vent pick (2"-3") to one end. I make a 1" to 2" loop in the other end of the boot lace strip.

I then attach the lace to the front of my trigger guard which provides easy access to the vent pick. I check on, replace, or re-position my priming powder probably more often than necessary, and I always make sure my touch hole is open and is not clogged with priming powder.

If your touch hole channel isn't open to your main charge, you'll suffer a hang fire, flash-in-the-pan, or the kaaaaaa-boom flinches at the most unfortunate time.

I've been there, done that!

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post #8 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 04:25 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by BerksCoflinter
I take an 8" to 10" piece of leather boot lace, and attach a homemade brass vent pick (2"-3") to one end. I make a 1" to 2" loop in the other end of the boot lace strip.

I then attach the lace to the front of my trigger guard which provides easy access to the vent pick. I check on, replace, or re-position my priming powder probably more often than necessary, and I always make sure my touch hole is open and is not clogged with priming powder.

If your touch hole channel isn't open to your main charge, you'll suffer a hang fire, flash-in-the-pan, or the kaaaaaa-boom flinches at the most unfortunate time.

I've been there, done that!
I've never found a need to prime prior to a possible shot in the making. I wish more flint lockers would consider this. Eliminates many ignition headaches and IMO improves the safety of the activity. Especially while walking.
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post #9 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 06:47 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

What really solved my "flinch" when the pan powder goes off, was when Pa. finally changed the Regs. and allowed a peep sight on flinters. I happen to love peep sights. So I immediately purchased a Lyman peep sight for my T\C Hawken.

Now, in addition to having a longer sight picture, the peep sight actually blocks the frizzen from my eye's view completely. So, I don't flinch....because I don't see the spark 'n flash!!!!

FWIW

Dave

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post #10 of 72 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 07:59 PM
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Re: Flintlock Tips

That is amazing!

The Berks family would have eaten quite a bit less venison over the years of my flintlock hunting had I waited to prime when a shot presented itself. The only view of the last doe I harvested had I waited to prime, would have been her south end of her anatomy heading rapidly north.

I feel strongly that my attention to the priming pan and the touch hole has eliminated ignition concerns, and unless a flintlock nimrod foolishly hunts with the hammer at full cock, safety issues are basically of no concern, in my honest opinion.

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