Stock Question - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Stock Question

I have a 32", 15/16", 54 cal barrel that shoots round ball very well and I would like to buy one of these pre-fit stocks for TC hardware and build a nice rifle this winter with an L&R lock, etc. Where would be the best place to buy one of these stocks in maple? I have seen them in at least two websites. Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 02:19 AM
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I'm pretty sure Pecatonica River could help you out. They offer Thompson Center half and fullstocks for 15/16" and 1" barrels. Good folks to deal with, and provide quick service. Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply > [email protected] (phone: 815-968-1995)

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 08:28 AM
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In addition to what BerksCoflinter has linked, you can also take a look at Track of the Wolf. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/906/1 This link should get you to the page at ToTW where you can find different grades of wood in a "pre-shape, pre-inletted" long stock.

I built a Leman style flinter awhile back using a pre-shaped non-inletted semi-fancy maple stock. I can tell you that even tho the stocks are pre-shaped.....they are hardly a "kit" style piece. I believe I removed at least half of the wood that was on that pre-shape to get it to the point where it was a fair example of an original Leman build.

So, don't be concerned that if you purchase a pre-shape you are getting something that is sand a little and assemble. I had likely 350 total hours in my build. That includes the shaping and finishing of all steel (I used no brass) and hours into lock prep. The .54 cal took a doe last season and I am very satisfied with the final product. I can also tell you every mistake that is on the final product!!! Pre-inletted stocks have the wood removed for the trigger, lock, and tang, as well as the barrel channel and ramrod hole drilled. Pre-shaped stocks have the barrel channel and ramrod hole drilled. You must chisel\drill\file out the lock mortise and the trigger.

Good luck on your build and enjoy the final outcome!!

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 08:58 AM
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Good information Steeltrap, and a really fine looking rifle!

I think in some ways, building flintlocks fills the same need building rock walls accomplished generations ago. When the better half desires you out of her hair and out of the house, she announces, "Why don't you go build a rifle (or rock wall)?!!!"
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 01:01 AM
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I have a bit of a story....


A few years ago I found a fast twist green mountain 1" TC drop in replacement barrel and at the time, I wanted to shoot modern bullets...

Already had a L&R replacement lock for a TC.

I knew TOTW sold "replacement" furniture for TCs. Davis makes a "deer Slayer" drop in trigger...only thing I needed was the tang which I snagged on eBay.

Ordered a stock from Pectonia River and all the furniture from TOTW.



The stock came and I was shocked. It was....huge. I could have stocked 2 rifles from it lol. It was sorta shaped like a gun. Some inlets were cut but nothing actually fit.

The TOTW order came....steel wax castings. No holes drilled. Needed a good bit of clean up....


I didn't know what to do. I wanted to finish the wood and metal and have a new gun. Boy was I wrong.


I always wanted to "build" a flintlock...but had zero knowledge or tools.


I decided to go with it....bought tools and stuff as I needed them and did the best I could.


Took forever....but I learned a ton. And, the rifle is wicked accurate and deadly....it's killed my biggest buck to date....





I have since built another from a precarved stock and have just finished my 3rd...my first from a plank. I have a bandsaw and more tools than my bench can hold...2 vises and a dedicated bench lol. I have 3 barreled rifle planks and 2 barreled pistol planks and a stash of building supplies...bolts, screws, pin stock etc etc. The plank build I actually learned to make nearly everything. Aside from the barrel and lock, the pipes are the only thing I didn't make or heavily modify.


So, long story short, it wasn't what I expected....but the build but bit me....and I will probably be stocking flintlocks for the rest of my days...
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mauser06 View Post
So, long story short, it wasn't what I expected....but the build but bit me....and I will probably be stocking flintlocks for the rest of my days...
Very nice rifle....and that buck is...well.....FANTASTIC!! Congrats!!!

I would strongly suggest anyone who is going to build a rifle to get this book: https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...C?PageSize=100 I purchased it before my Leman build and the book had made a huge difference in my approach to the build and I'm sure the outcome.

Ten years ago I built a F\L 50 cal pistol with no reference guide. After my Leman build I re-did my flintlock pistol to a much more slim and "likable" pistol. The pistol is now easy to shoot (trigger location makes all the difference!!). Placement of the trigger pin allows no need for a set trigger as found on most T\C's. Now my Leman and my pistol have smooth, easy trigger pulls.

FWIW

Here's a pic of my pistol before my re-do. As you can see it's "blocky" and just plain FAT


And post re-build. Much thinner and the line's flow much better. Not perfect....but better!

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 10:22 AM
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Just a note on builds. My pistol began as a nice block of curly walnut. My Leman is maple. I strongly advise any beginner to use maple. Maple is a much easier wood to work with. Walnut is tough to work with as small precise cuts\carving can "splinter" into something you don't want!!

That's just my opinion after working with both.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-21-2019, 04:40 PM
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Thanx steeltrap!

You're right.... reference material is HUGE. Instructional books and videos are critical unless you are working with an experienced builder.

Also reference material of original guns. I see a lot of work and...sure, it's a functional gun....but it's obvious the builder didn't study original work. Fat, blocky, chunky things...carving that is nowhere near what it should be...even if you aren't trying to replicate a known original, IMO it's important to study the work and capture the eye appeal. The thinness, the flowing lines...the flowing carving...

I could easily buy components for an entire build with what I have spent on reference material alone...it's really helped me speed up the learning process. The build I just finished was my first from a plank and aside from the pipes, I made or heavily modified everything. Would have never attempted it without the references I have....makes for a better build too IMO. I made my trigger and was able to to keep a nice thin profile on the bottom of the stock...pre-made triggers typically need more wood. I made my sideplate based off the original I was using as inspiration and designed it to fit my lock bolt placement and to fill the sideplate area nicely. Same with everything else..it was filed and shaped to fit what I wanted...not a regular ole casting. More time and work....less expense...better outcome IMO.

I see guys get precarved and get the parts to fit and finish the wood....leaving big chunky things. Just because it's called a precarved doesn't mean it's at a finished dimension.

If you aren't capable of carving, it's probably best to leave it off. I struggle with it even still. Getting better...but I've practiced a LOT...j took a rasp to my first attempt on a stock.


Also right about wood....wood is wood...it's not created equal. I will NEVER buy a piece of wood that isn't extremely dense. It's a nightmare. I'm going to restock my turkey gun eventually because the wood was soft red maple and it fought me till the end. You can find good hard dense maple of all species. I have a stocked Norway maple that is about as hard as they come and the curly is exhibition grade. Norway maple isn't a common stock wood. Red and sugar is and both can be hard or soft...sugar tends to be harder but I've seen some not so dense sugar maple.

Cherry and walnut vary greatly. General rule is it can be "splintery" but not always. Watching the grain flow, cutting correctly and sharp tools is critical no matter what wood.


Ash can make a beautiful stock but it can be a bear to work. Not recommendable to carve unless you're an expert from what I've heard.
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Last edited by mauser06; 10-21-2019 at 05:00 PM.
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