Thinking about a kit gun or in the white - Page 3 - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mauser06 View Post
What kind of wheel do you use?? Do you use it just to polish or have you been successful cleaning up castings?

I've tried different Dremel wheels on the eggshell type finished wax castings without much luck. I did use the Dremel and sanding drums to clean up rough sand castings on my current build. There was sand embedded in the castings and it was near impossible to file...used the Dremel to remove the outer scale and embedded sand and the brass filed like butter.

Back to files and scraping lol.


I'd like to add a bench grinder and belt grinder to my work area in the near future. Both have a good bit of uses in a shop.
Good brand new swiss files work wonders on brass castings, just takes elbow grease and time. Look at the best builders, they dont use buffing wheels...just saying

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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 06:44 AM
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I have never been to one of their shops to see how they do things and most likely never will. we all have our own ways to do things be it right or wrong, but that is what works for us.
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 08:27 AM
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I file brass castings to clean it up then use the polishing wheel on my bench grinder to polish. I use 3 different compounds to work it down to final polish. After assembly, I never really polish again. Since they are my hunting guns I just let the brass tarnish and dull up. Once in a while I may hit it with 0000 steel wool to do some cleaning if it gets a little too rough.

Best tools I picked up over time was good files and chisels. I look for American made files in good shape at flea markets. Good chisels I get for inletting at the local Woodcrafters store. Still need more but they are not cheap and I buy as I go as needed.

Basically though, some good files and a couple small chisels and you can do a kit gun no problem

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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 11:57 AM
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Can't help you with brass. My builds are in steel. Brass is IMHO to shiny and will scare away all the big giant bucks!!! (That's my story and I'm sticking to it!!)

However, file....file....file.....start then with 100gr. and go to 220gr. Then brown or blue.
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 01:38 PM
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Could you all explain the differences in the kits?Like in the white,etc.Is the difference mainly the degree the kit is already done like bluing,inletting,etc?
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 03:16 PM
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Definitions aren't necessary carved in stone, so to speak. They sometimes vary a little from person to person...but generally speaking:

-"In the white" is a gun that's done except for stain/finish on the wood and whatever metal finish/treatment is to be applied. All file/scraper/sanding work is done on all materials and surfaces. Carving is done. No material removal is necessary.

-Precarved stocks are ROUGHLY shaped to mimic the style (Berks, Lancaster, Lehigh, etc) that they are for. Often a specific barrel is inlet to them. Sometimes a lock mortise is cut, sometimes not. These have the very rough appearance of a rifle, but lots of wood is left that needs to be removed, and lots of tasks left to do to make it a working rifle.

-"Plank" is just that.... a square-ish slab of wood. That's all. No inlets for anything. No shaping. You'll need a bandsaw to rough out the profile and slab off large pieces of wood once the project is laid out, then you'll still have tons of material removal to go before you're "in the white."

So, for kits...MOST are precarved stocks with all the parts needed bundled together. So barrel, lock, trigger, brass parts (buttplate, trigger guard, pipes, nose cap, side plate, etc), sights, tenons, etc included, but all has to be fitted/assembled.

The exception is the kit from Jim Kibler mentioned in this thread. That is a near "bolt it together" kit that then would be "in the white" with very little work (comparatively) to get there.
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 04:08 PM
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this drill press is my next "upgrade" to the gun room. I just don't really have a spot to put it so I may have to set it up in the other room.
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 04:22 PM
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Does anyone know if the Jim Kibler kit has the stock, tenons and pipes pre-drilled for the pins?
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 04:31 PM
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this drill press is my next "upgrade" to the gun room. I just don't really have a spot to put it so I may have to set it up in the other room.
That looks like the "desktop" model.
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 04:36 PM
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Does anyone know if the Jim Kibler kit has the stock, tenons and pipes pre-drilled for the pins?
This from https://www.jimkibler.net/kit-gun-faqs.html FAQ page on his website.

Are the holes all drilled in the metal parts and the stock? ​

All of the holes are drilled in the wood. Some holes need to be drilled in metal parts.

Parts that are pinned to the stock will require holes being drilled after parts are fit.

The lock will need to be drilled and tapped for the lock bolt.

The trigger plate will need this treatment as well, for the tang bolts.

The tang is fully shaped and has holes in it.

​The buttplate has all holes drilled and countersunk.
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