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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Re: gun not holding a tight group
I have to disagree with everyone on this forum, because it is impossible for me or you or anyone to diagnose a problem over the internet.
Logic tells me that the scope is broke.
Unfortunately the author told us the caliber and the make of the rifle, but he left out the make and model of the scope and the make and model of the scope mounts.
I have rifles that have been abused before I bought them and yet after a simple cleaning, they shot better than anything you can buy in the store today.
If the rifle was good, a little abuse doesn't affect the quality of the accuracy.
Barrel pitting is almost non existent - the last of the corrosive primers being used up in the last 10 years or so in the old '06 makes newer ammo more digestible.
The first test I give any scope is the shake test. I take it off the rifle, I shake it and if it rattles, it goes back to the manufacturer or straight into the garbage.
The second test is to fill the sink with warm water and immerse the scope for 15 minutes with the elevation and windage caps removed.
If I see any bubbles, the scope goes back to the manufacturer or straight into the garbage.
Next is the scope mount, I use Pink service removable small screw Loctite. If the screws are loose or if there is a problem, you can use a wooden dowel rod to check alignment of the mounts. I never use the scope to release the mount with a dovetail type mount.
If the rifle is still doing weird things, I try another scope, just to see if it was the rifle or the scope.
The barrel of the rifle should be free floated, which means that there should be no pressure points in the stock that pushes against the barrel. Dis-assembly of the rifle will show how it is made, again we don't know if it has a black synthetic stock or a wood stock, or if it was designed to be free floated.
Next I would look at the ammo - make sure that I did not mix 150 gr with 180 gr - just an example, not the actual weight this man might be using in his / her rifle.
Next would be to check the headspace, a good machinist might have a tool that not only performs the go / no go but also actually measures the head space against a known size.
I would look at how the bolt locks up in the action, the action itself, and the lands and grooves in the barrel.
There is only so many things you can look at.
You can check the diameter of the bore - the gunsmith pours lead into the barrel and then pounds it out.
The gunsmith can check to see if the barrel is swelled, a sign that there was an obstruction in the barrel and was fired while there was an obstruction in the barrel.
I would also check it with it's open sights as opposed to using the scope and I would shoulder fire it and not use the lead sled.
You can't get accuracy when you don't personally shoulder and fire the rifle.
I don't stock any faith into using the lead sled because as others has expressed on this forum, you aren't putting the stock of the rifle against your shoulder and you are not looking through the scope the same way as you would if you shoulder fired the rifle.
I don't know where you live, but I would find a good gun shop and have it checked out by a competent gunsmith.