Treating traps - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Treating traps

How do you treat your traps before setting? Any pictures?
Dip?
Paint?
Dye & Wax?
other?

I Boil clean with Lye, then Wax

Last edited by Hern; 10-14-2019 at 04:56 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 06:37 PM
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Boiled with a bunch of walnuts for dye, then waxed. I keep it pretty simple.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 07:09 PM
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Run them through the dish washer, dry, then dip in FMJ, clean dogs off then hang in shed until trapping time!
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 10:11 PM
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Depends what Iím trapping. Canine traps ( #2s) get boiled clean and dipped in wax. Skip the dye, no point in it, as they are gonna be bedded and hidden. DPs get pressure washed and spray painted. Usually white. Conibears get spray painted also, black or brown. They never get waxed. My muskrat and beaver footholds, I skip boiling them off, just dip them in wax. Leave them in hot wax long enough to melt off last yearís wax. Iím not concerned about odors with my water line gear.

I pay close attention not to over heat my canine wax, donít want wax to smell burnt. I keep my canine trap wax separate from other waxes.

I go back and hit the dogs and pan notches with a small butane torch to dissolve and wax on the dogs or night latches.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2019, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyb1815 View Post
Boiled with a bunch of walnuts for dye, then waxed. I keep it pretty simple.
I dyed a dozen new Duke #4s ( great Pa. beaver trap ) in walnuts this year. I gathered up a bunch last fall, put them in a plastic tote. They were black and flakey, ( nuts were in there too) put then in a feed sack and tossed them into the half of a 55 gallon drum I boil in. I let them simmer a while and then soak for a couple days. The traps came out jet black. Itís been 40 years since Iíd used walnuts, I think they worked better than the logwood dye thatís sold.

I did spray the traps with solvent when they came out of the box, then let them out to weather for a month to take a little rust.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Last season's wet, muddy conditions, I had a lot of muddy Canine traps.

mud trap.jpg
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 08:55 AM
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Walnuts are tough to beat, especially since they are free.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Before treating traps, I check swivels, nametag and general condition of trap.
I set trap to make sure pan sits where I want it and to see if trap needs tuning. Then I dry fire trap to see how it closes.
Just like sighting in a rifle, I check & retune each trap, if needed.

When cleaning traps or preparing to boil or dip, check each spring for dirt, mud or debris. Clean spring if clodded, this may hold foreign odors.

Clogged spring holes
Before & After
mud trap 1.jpg

mud trap 2.jpg
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 09:06 AM
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Do you use a wire brush on them Before boiling hern?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Before treating traps, check sping pins-
If you don't weld or brace spring pin on traps, they may get out of line.
The springs may shift to one side or come out of groove in frame. This will cause problems when firing, catching and holding canines.
This is an easy fix by tapping back into place & centering.

Below are examples of-
1) spring pin/springs off center
2 & 3) spring pin out of place/out of groove
IMG_0001.JPG

IMG_0003.JPG

IMG_0005.JPG
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