First, I would suggest to register to be member of Don Powell's www.minktrapping.com
Go to the discussion page.
Ton's of Mink info on that site. Plus, Don is a resident of Pennsylvania. Don is known throughout the USA trapping community as The Mink Professor
As for your questions here, you will get a variety answers about sets, which will relate to personal choice or style of Mink trapping for each person.
Personally, I'm a blind setter. Mainly dry ground or water's edge. No lure or bait. Knee boots for my Mink method.
I use #1 1/2 coil springs (with larger pan) & #2 coil springs. My Mink traps are rigged with 3'-4' light weight chain & small, 2 prong, Mink drag.
With trap rigged with drag, I have no need to carry wire or linesmen pliers. If setting at bridge wall or water's edge, I simply extend drag into water and place rock on top of drag.
If trapping streamside tree's root system, drag is pre-hooked to root.
Any method you use, study Mink & it's travel ways. They don't go in every hole. They don't look in every hole. I've observed Mink hunting along stream banks. When nosing around/hunting, Mink appear more Snake like to me. Moving head back & forth, up & down slowly, watching for movement & sniffing things out, all while taking small steps or small stride.
When traveling, Mink lope. Which seems like a Grey Squirrel hopping across the back yard. In which, I tell folks, If you can catch a Squirrel, you can catch a Mink.
Pre-season work will aid in your success with Mink. Scout your areas. Pick your locations. Make a good location better. By that, move rocks, dig pockets, build up corner of bridge wall and so on before the season. This will save much time & guess work on setting day. Just remember to hide (camo) your pre-season work from others.
Set more than 1 trap at a location. Set 2-4 traps (or more) depending on size of waterway. Mink trapping is a game of numbers. More traps = more chances of this smaller footed critter. Up your odds with more traps and good sets per location.