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BroadHead Debate

18K views 252 replies 46 participants last post by  dce 
#1 ·
2020 is my quest for the ultimate broadhead. I'm looking for a head (style) that will fly and perform the best from 200 FPS to 450 FPS. I'm working with a broadhead and bow manufacturer on this project as well. I've already begun some initial testing and have formed some opinions. I've also secured 4 front shoulders from mature bucks to use for penetration testing when I get to that point. Anyone who's followed my ramblings knows I'm a strong proponent of expandable blade broadheads when shot at speeds in excess of 350 FPS, but initial testing has me leaning towards a fixed blade style head as the best "all around" performing head when tested under various conditions. Further testing may or may not substantiate these early trends. I'm looking for hunter feedback on what has & hasn't worked the best for you. Thanks!
 

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#2 ·
I've killed and been directing on hand when several hundred deer have been killed by every type of BH imaginable.I've also been on probably twice that many blood trails shot in every part of the anatomy with every type of BH.If you shoot a tuned bow and there's no excuse not to,there's no advantage to a mechanical.Penetration trumps cutting diameter every time and durability is a close second,which always goes to a fixed head.Marketing and misinformation sells mechanicals.
 
#3 ·
Magnus Black Hornet Ser Razor 100 gr. has been great from my 375 FPS Xbow. Always fly straight and they leave one heck of blood trail (as would most all broadheads on good shots). You can replace the blades if needed. I also spin test all my broadheads on each arrow and correct the broadhead as needed. Much easier to do on these unlike a G5 Montec where the blades are fixed and if bent you're SOL. They also have a lifetime warranty and I have sent back some of their stinger broadheads I use on my traditional bow when they get a little veshnickered (beyond my sharpening ability on something important).


I didn't like the shwackers I tried this year. The "o-ring sleeve?" that holds the blades shut seemed to flimsy to me for a higher powered Xbow and I have read some on bowsite how others would put shrink tubing on the shaft instead but I feel you shouldn't have to do that when you pay over $30 for 3 broadheads. Just my $0.02!


Good luck and report back whenever that may be!
 
#4 ·
Zwickey eskimoes have always worked very well for me, though my arrows don’t reach 200fps. This is a very interesting experiment to me though, look forward to your results. Are you planning on trying any of the broadheads that are mostly used by trad archers?(zwickeys, razor heads, maybe a wensel woodsman)
 
#6 ·
Assuming a tuned arrow, substantially anything on the market does well on a broadside double lung shot. A lot of the debate surrounding broadheads is pure stupidity, and trying to crown an "ultimate broadhead" is an impossible exercise in tomfoolery.

I think broadhead design ultimately breaks down into two categories, based on desired performance on subpar shots. The middle ground tries to balance out both.

1) Gut shots - naturally a larger cutting diameter while maintaining reasonable penetration. Due to flight characteristics, these tend to be mechanicals.

2) Penetrate bone - smaller cutting diameter, more robust design to maximize penetration. This rules out flimsy stamped blades.

I prefer approach #2, but I can see the other side of the coin too. I have a mental block against mechanicals, I just don't trust them. If I was all in on #2, I would use single bevel two blades, but I hedge somewhat and use three blades. For the past several years I've been using VPA 3 blades, and I've really been impressed with the penetration and durability.
 
#7 ·
I have always used fixed head, mostly muzzys now, and last year shot one with a ram cat. With the muzzys, I have always had a pass thru even when hitting shoulder bones. I do not get those extreme blood trails, but if you hit them right, you should find them. I shoot each arrow and hand sharpen each head, and spin test. I can usually reuse my broad heads after a kill, just resharpen and spin to make sure they are not bent. I hear of some great blood trails with mechanicals, but have helped track some shot with mechanicals and saw a normal blood trail. I guess either will work on the perfect shot, but when something is not quite right, like a bone gets in the path of the broadhead I think I would rather have a good fixed head. If I knew every shot would be a perfect behind the shoulder shot, I would give those wide cutting mechanicals a try. Different skill levels can also be a big factor. There are guys out there that will take almost any shot, no matter how the deer is standing.
 
#9 ·
I've always used Muzzy 100gr and they have always worked for me. However, I've read some post where should the aluminum Muzzy strike bone, they will break apart and not penetrate. The solution was these "VPA's" as they are all steel. I've never tried 'em but these could be worth a look. https://vparchery.com/product-category/three-blade/
 
#11 ·
I been shooting 4 blade muzzy 100 grains for the last 15 years or so. If I do my job, they do theirs. I used their little carbide sharpener and they are reliable and great performing broadhead. I have stuffed them through ribs and a couple shoulder blades and never had one break from it. They will not hold up to the roll-over test if you spine a deer though, lost 2 that way, busted arrows and all, I do not recommend spine shots with any broadhead, though, no good.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
I bought a 3-pack of these this year. They are very nice. I shot a hard quartering away moose in September and my arrow broke through the opposite shoulder blade.

The only damage was a very very slight deformity at the tip. The blades were still very sharp.

I carried them archery hunting this year, but was holding out for something substantial this season and did not get a chance to use on a whitetail.

I’m confident they would work very well on deer, but I’m not sure we need to spend $100/3 for white tails. That said, I think they are as about as good as you can get.

They fly GREAT for me, are more durable than anything I’ve ever shot, penetrate well, and carry a lifetime warranty.
 
#14 ·
My son shot 4 mature deer this year with 100 gr viper tricks.They're a small 1 1/16 fixed blade cut on contact head with two tiny bleeder blades.I had him using them because he was shooting a 300+gr arrow at 240 fps.Two were double lungs that dropped within 40 yards.One was a 38 yard shot on a big doe that was quatering away.The BH entered the liver and exited the opposite lung.The deer went maybe 50 yards,laid down and was dead by the time we walked up to her.The last deer was a solid liver hit that ran 60 yards laid down in front of me.I had no way to finish it off so we came back in the morning and it was stiff as a board.Every shot was a pass through and three of those deer were shot with the same arrow and BH after I touched up the blades.No mechanical would have done any better.Here's a tiny exit wound.People put way more thought into the perfect BH than necessary.They need to be razor sharp,penetrate completely and stay together.
 

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#17 ·
I'll be putting many brands to the test not just those in the picture. The goal is not to crown a single head as the best per se, but to find a head that works the best in the majority of situations. You can pretty much get telephone poles with single bevel broadheads to fly from traditional equipment, and compounds can be easily tuned for proper broadhead flight. Crossbows are an entirely different animal because of their speed. What I'm trying to accomplish is to find a more than happy medium across all spectrums of bows that a fairly novice bowhunter can find manageable. And from that criteria I also want to find the head with best capable killing power if the shot goes wrong. Every arrow flys great with a field point, and every animal dies when it's double lunged. It's the other variables I want to bring into the equation that the less than average bowhunter can understand and take advantage of. Thanks to all for the feedback and please continue.
 
#19 ·
If the shot goes wrong,the head that wins is the sharpest one that penetrates completely every time and stays together.The cutting diameter doesn't mean anything on a marginal hit because you can't increase the kill zone.Probably a couple dozen different heads would fit that description.
 
#30 ·
Irrelevant.The cutting diameter means nothing and in many cases causes the deer to run out of Dodge like it's bagonia is on fire.It simply blows my mind that anyone would even consider using a BH that makes a "shwack" sound when it hits a deer.As a general rule,deer will run a shorter distance when you use a quite bow,shoot an unalarmed deer and just zip a sharp BH through them.It's not even debatable.
 
#21 ·
Original Rocky Mountain Snyper, the "slip cam" design that became Rage. Snypers were built tough, I think the early generation Rages may not have been as robust, but the recent generation with the thicker Shock Collar come close. Fly light darts and devastate any deer.
 
#24 ·
Truglo TitaniumX - 4 blade. I make a "hybrid" version. Take the top 1 1/8 inch blades out and replace with 1 3/4 inch blades that match bottom set - so you have 1 3/4 inch x 1 3/4 inch cut with a titanium 1 piece feral. No bands no clips no gimmicks they are completely fool proof of failure. Blood trails are crazy and penetration impressive. I'm a broadhead junkie and I can't believe something else would outperform this head. I dedicated 1 as practice only and have at least 50 shots into target. Zero damage to blades or feral - and they fly very true. Look them up they are priced right. I have video of this season's buck blood trail - very impressive !
 
#25 ·
I have a friend with a fairly new ten point crossbow, so I'm assuming it's right up there speed wise. We shot my sons slick trick magnums out of it out to 50 yds, perfect flight. That's probably going to be the issue with fixed blades out of a fast crossbow more than any other.

Penetration and durability are always better with fixed blades, so if you can get good flight I can't imigine why you'd use a mechanical. In looking for the best all around broadhead I assume you'd be considering game bigger and tougher than deer?

I like thunderheads, but I realize their limitations on anything larger than deer. If I was looking at hunting bigger game I think vpa's
would be my choice. Flight issues might be a problem with a crossbow though. Slick tricks might not be quite as tough as vpa's or something solid, but imo they are stronger than thunderheads, muzzys, or anything that's not all steel with a better way to lock the blades.
 
#26 ·
In my opinion, the best broadhead will simply be the one that is the most accurate and strong enough to withstand the high kinetic energy of today's crossbows. A strong ferrule is also very important so that it can withstand the initial impact and not bend or break, decreasing penetration.

I have the Tenpoint Nitro X crossbow and use the Evo-tech Centerpunch broadhead. It's rated for up to 500 fps. It truly has field tip accuracy. And they cannot open in flight due to design.
 
#27 ·
Rocket steelhead 100! Started using them when they first came out. Then the mechanical broadhead boom started .
I used the steelhead for years. Hit deer just about every where you could with them.( younger days) Always recovered deer.
Started switching to other brands that seemed like good ideas but didn’t get the same results on deer. Went back to the steelhead and haven’t look back.
Small, tough, penetration. Stick with those til I run out.
 
#33 ·
If HPA proves anything, it is that everything is debatable, lol.



I think the best broadhead will still let you down if not place in the right spot, all my archery failures I can usually trace back to me, not my gear being at fault. Really good broadheads don't replace really good shots.
 
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