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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Barrel Powder

For the last couple of years I have had to clean my gun after 3 but sometimes 2 shots because it is so dirty that I cant get the ball down the barrel. Someone told me to go to 3F powder instead of 2F because it burns better. They also told me that 80 grains of 3F is equivelant to 100 grains of 2F. Is this all true? Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks for any info!!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 07:54 PM
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Re: Barrel Powder

A 15 to 20 percent reduction would be about right, from 2F to 3F black powder. I assume you are asking about real black? 3F may burn a little cleaner, it is finer, and you are using less, so less fouling. But what I have found as far as loading patched round [censored] is that the lube usually dictates whether you have to swab between shots. I use Hoppes #9 Plus Black Powder Solvent And Patch Lube, and swabbing between shots is rare. I also use .018" pillow ticking material as my patch. In most of my flinters,I use 3F Goex in the pan and main charge, and in percussion sidelocks I mainly shoot 2F Goex. If you are shooting sabots you are doing good having to swab every three shots. Pretty much the same with conicals.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 09:23 PM
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Re: Barrel Powder

More often than not a dirty bore is from a too thin of a patch.A thin patch causes inproper burning of powder.Go thicker.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 02:15 PM
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Re: Barrel Powder

Quote:
But what I have found as far as loading patched round [censored]
Pretty tough having a muzzleloader forum, and having that word, ba!!s, censored. Why in the world is that censored ?

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 02:52 PM
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Re: Barrel Powder

I use 80 grns 3f in my flintlock in the barrel. I have gotten many shots out of it before I had to run a cleaning patch when I used it at conservation camp for the kids to shoot.



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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 03:54 PM
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Re: Barrel Powder

When I use to shoot the original T\C 1-48 twist barrel that was on my Hawken, I would get maybe 4 shots, 80gr. FF Goex before I had to swab it. T\C barrels have very thin rifling groves.

Several years ago when Green Mountain made "drop in replacements" for the T\C's" (they still may I'm not sure of that) I replaced my barrel with a 1-70 twist GM. This barrel has deep cut groves and I now shoot the same PRB or a 240gr. Pa. Conical over 100gr. of FF Goex powder, and I will easily get ten shots before I need to swab.

The deep cut rifling makes a big difference. In addition, the GM barrel is much more accurate, and far more consistent than the T\C barrel ever was.

FWIW

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 03:58 PM
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Re: Barrel Powder

A loose patch and ball combination or so much powder that it is still burning after the bullet exits the muzzle are the primary causes of excess fouling. Patch lube can certainly remedy some of the problem. But having a patch so wet with lube that it softens the fouling on the way down, will probably also cause the powder charge to become damp. Not so much when target shooting, but out hunting.

Some shorter barrels only have the capacity to burn about 80 to 90 grains before the ball exits the muzzle. Part of the excess is burned after the ball exits the muzzle in muzzle flash and that leads to increased fouling. If you are shooting 100 grains of 2fg, try either backing off to 80 or a tighter patch and see if the fouling is as bad.

Twist, barrel length and humidity play a large part in how hard the fouling can be in a barrel. On some humid summer days, the fouling stays soft and slimey and on some dry autumn days and winter days it gets like a bone dry rock.

Even some rifling makes it easier to push the fouling back down when loading the next shot.
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