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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Northern Berks County, PA
You're into archery, correct?
Look at entry level bows. The basic, very basic, entry level bows.
Now look at the bows you really like and want to shoot.
The same pattern holds true with flintlocks.
I'm not sure I really understand the concept of pellet based propellant in a flintlock. While convenience is a compelling idea, when you have to drop loose powder down first to get reliable ignition, it seems to me you've tossed convenience.
Regardless, if you use speed loader tubes with premeasured powder charges, and you practice, you can reload pretty quickly. A push-through speed load tube reloads as fast, or faster, than anything else I've seen. You uncap the end, dump in the main charge, run your rod down through the tube to start the ball/patch, then seat it and pull off the tube. It's literally just a few seconds. So I don't know what using pellets actually gains?
I'm also not really a fan of any substitute propellant in a flintlock. Again, I fail to see the point. You have to clean the bore when you shoot all of them, so if you gotta clean, then why quibble over the degree of dirty it is...?
My strong suggestion is just use black powder and be done with it.
The concept of a stainless gun in a synthetic stock seems good when you view it like you view a bolt action. In a flintlock? Meh....if it just is what you like, go for it, but the whole "all weather" thing in a flintlock is much less limited by your ability to make the lock work in wet weather than any impacts the weather has on the stock or the metal finish.
The advice about refining the pan/frizzen fit is good advice. You can also use petroleum jelly and/or lip balm to smear along the seam of the frizzen and pan, which helps isolate the priming charge from wet elements.
I use real BP and I have been out in rain and foggy weather with zero ignition issues.