English Flints - Mounting - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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English Flints - Mounting

How do you mount your English Flints?
Bevel up or bevel down?
Flat side up or flat side down?
This would be on a Lyman Deerstalker.

I have been using cut agates and they go bevel down.

Also what is the best size 5/8 x 3/4 or 3/4 x7/8.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 06:46 PM
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All my production guns like the long side top but my custom likes long side down.Flint of 5/8 x 3/4.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 08:19 PM
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Usually, the size of the flint is dictated by the lock size. Most of the larger locks require a flint of at least 3/4 inch. 5/8ths flints are normally used on those dinky Traditions locks or on the small handgun locks. Larger flint such as 7/8ths and up are used on the big locks such as on a Brown Bess, etc. I've got 3/4x3/4 flints on my two kit guns, although the Queen Anne lock on my .62 cal smooth bore could probably benefit from a 7/8ths sized flint, as the lock is pretty big. I may try them.

As to bevel up or down, try this. Mount the flint in the jaws of the cock, then lower the cock into the pan as if the gun's just been fired. Take note of where the edge of the flint pointing. In other words, lay the gun with the lock facing up, and look at the touch hole. The edge of the flint should be almost right in line with the touch hole. If its off, you'll notice, then turn the flint over and try again. You're trying to get the shower of sparks to fall as close to the center where the touch hole is, if I'm explaining this right. This helps with ignition timing and to get the most out of the spark/priming charge.

Last edited by Blue Bird; 12-21-2016 at 08:22 PM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA-Joe View Post
How do you mount your English Flints?
Bevel up or bevel down?
Flat side up or flat side down?
This would be on a Lyman Deerstalker.

I have been using cut agates and they go bevel down.

Also what is the best size 5/8 x 3/4 or 3/4 x7/8.

worked on one of those today for a guy. 5/8x3/4 bevel down. hardened the frizzen, smoothed up the frizzen spring, took a little material off the frizzen contact point at the spring and cut a new piece of leather for it. boy what a mess that thing was! that thing would have never fired!
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2016, 10:53 PM
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Well, the other way to approach this is that you have exactly two choices. Try them and see how it goes!

For English flints, I think they look odd with the flat side up and bevel on the bottom, but that's just me.

I've heard compelling arguments for both ways of mounting a flint. End result----try both and see what works best for you.

As for flint sizes, I can't imagine a production gun like that taking a 7/8 flint. That's what I put in my big "Colonial" lock from Davis that's on my 62. They're BIG flints, and I'm certain they'd mar the barrel on a production gun. You want a flint that will span the width, or just a hair less, of your frizzen and not contact your barrel/pan when the cock is all the way forward/down.

Last edited by tdd; 12-21-2016 at 10:56 PM.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 10:36 AM
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"smoothed up the frizzen spring"


How did you smooth up the spring ? I know mine is a bit tight, and I'm afraid to try and get a bit more play by squeezing the spring a bit more with vise grips.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 10:38 AM
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As for flints up or down, I was always schooled that you want the flint to strike the frizzen near abouts 2/3 of the way up ? That said, you will see which way gives you that contact point.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 12:27 PM
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Generally you want to have it hitting as high as possible on the frizzen but make sure it doesn't bottom out on the flash pan, that will splinter your flint . I have no issues with the slant UP and the flat leading edge down on my Renegade
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleroo View Post
"smoothed up the frizzen spring"


How did you smooth up the spring ? I know mine is a bit tight, and I'm afraid to try and get a bit more play by squeezing the spring a bit more with vise grips.

don't squeeze the spring, because it will break! you can take material off of the part of the frizzen that rides on the spring with a dremel, grinder or belt sander( just remember it is rounded not flat). same with the top of the spring. they are both hardend , so don't get them hot and they are hard enough you can't file them. sand paper or a sharpening stone will work also. take a little at a time, so as you get the frizzen to spring open easier and smoother. the lock is the "heart of the beast" and fine tuning/polishing every moving part will give you a faster and more reliable working lock. there probably is a video on youtube(there is) that would help you if you aren't familiar with taking one apart.

Last edited by blackpowder; 12-22-2016 at 05:04 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-25-2016, 03:01 PM
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Bevel down in my Firestorm and mine strikes about 3/4 the way up the frizzen. No gouging and long flint life. I use a diamond dremel tool to make a nice flat spot on flints that are a little off kilter. I also use a lead holder vice leather. I get reliable ignition and lots of sparks. I did upgrade to a Lyman frizzen.
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