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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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T/C renegade

I have an older renegade that has a faulty hammer. it looks as though the hole was not stamped the whole way through so it does not sit flat against the lock. Does anyone know what other hammers will work for it, because I cannot find an exact replacement.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-17-2014, 03:44 PM
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Re: T/C renegade

Is this a cap lock or flintlock?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2014, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: T/C renegade

its a flint
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2014, 04:55 PM
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Re: T/C renegade

Not sure what other hammer you could use. You used to be able to send the lock back to T/C with a letter explaining your issue and they would repair the lock for you. Don't know if that applies still / to your problem. I will just plug an excellent upgrade to this gun. I just installed the L&R T/C RPL lock into my gun. It was definitely worth the money if you can do some simple woodwork / modifications!

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2014, 05:31 PM
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Re: T/C renegade

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebeale
I have an older renegade that has a faulty hammer. it looks as though the hole was not stamped the whole way through so it does not sit flat against the lock. Does anyone know what other hammers will work for it, because I cannot find an exact replacement.
Not sure about the Renegade, but I have seen some cocks that the hole to mount it on the tumbler was not cut the whole way through. Like a thin edge at the screw end of the hole, to make it sit ON the tumbler.

You don't want it "against" the plate. It should be free of the plate, and screwed to the tumbler tight. Some tumbler shafts, the square bevel stops before the plate entrance, and the cock stops against those bevels. Some cocks have the extra metal in the hole like you mention.

If it is allowed against the plate, it not only scratches, it slows the cock and does not spark well.

Then again, maybe it is bent from being banged around or dropped. Just don't know without seeing it myself.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-18-2014, 08:34 PM
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Re: T/C renegade

I would recommend replacing a TC lock with and L&R. Sell your lock for parts on eBay. Once you use the L&R, you will never want to hunt with a TC lock again.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: T/C renegade

Thanks for the advice. And it is exactly as rusty describes the thin metal edge. I cant imagine it is meant to be that way though because there is about a quarter inch of slop when it is sitting in any position. It makes it really tough for adjusting your flint. How is the L&R T\C replacement finished, blued or stainless or something else?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 03:54 PM
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Re: T/C renegade

If you do go L&R RPL lock, buying from Track of the Wolf, I think the locks are only "in the white" (unfinished surface), but the lock is functional.

L&R TC RPL Lock

If you call L&R to order direct, they will brown or blue the lock for an extra few bucks, or leave it in the white for you to do it.

They also provide instructions on where the minor wood removal is/might be necessary for final fit. Most of it is deeper spots for lock screws (sear, sear spring, bridle) to clear. It is not an out of the box drop into place and screw on.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 06:51 PM
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Re: T/C renegade

When my dad bought his RPL lock it was in the white. He just left it go. As long as you take good care of it, it will eventually develop a brown coat of it's own from weathering. I had mine blued and it turned out really well.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-20-2014, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: T/C renegade

Thanks for the help, im leaning towards just replacing the lock.
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