Sorry if theres a lag between posts of pictures and actual text, its alot easier for me to post pics from my phone but I am not typing that much on my phone haha.

I've been doing .300 Blackout for about a year now and love it. Just wondering if anyone else out there shoots it?

To me its a great, cheap plinking round for the AR platform. If you don't mind putting them time into making the brass its not to bad.

This is my AR pistol. I have magpul MBUS's for it but I had taken them off to do some work and havent put them back on yet. Its on a Palmetto State lower I built and the upper is a MAS defense upper. I currently have my paperwork in for an SBR so I can put a forward grip and a stock on it.




These are my home defense rounds. They are 150gr remington PSP's with 15.0 grs of H110.



These are my plinking subs. They are 220gr Cast Lee molds that I have powdercoated. I have zero leading with them and they function flawlessly. They are loaded with 12.3grs of IMR4198. I size these out to .310 and crimp them. So far it always seems to work.



These are the bullets themselves. The smaller ones are 160gr cast that I also load in 7.62x39 for my RPK. They work ok for supers but I don't load them alot because I always end up using them for my RPK.



Some mags need modification to make them work. I use Magpuls and file down the ridge the mag follower rides on. I only file it down about 5 or 6 inches. So far I have never had a malfunction or a tilted follower. I've fired probably close to a 1000 rounds of them so I think thats a pretty good number for testing haha.

I built one two years ago to hunt hogs and deer down south.

I'm only running factory supersonic Barnes VOR-TX ammo for now but I have played with Hornady 208 grain A-max subsonics.

My rifle has a 16" NEMO barrel with a carbine length gas system. I'm not running a suppressor but it's fed, fired, extracted and ejected every round I've fed it so far.

I was massively impressed with the accuracy of the Barnes 110 grain VOR-TX. It was the first time in my life that I put five shots essentially through the same hole at 100 yards.

I took two whitetail does with it in SC last year. One was DRT with one shot of the Barnes at 60 yards. The other one went about 50 yards after an 80 yard shot with the same ammo. I'll be taking it back down to SC to the same outfitter later this year. I'm hoping to get into some hogs this time around.

Built my first one about a year ago to take hog hunting in South Carolina. It's a 16" with a Palmetto state upper and lower.



I ordered a 10" upper from DSG Arms during their Black Friday sale. Have the paperwork submitted and should have my stamp next week for it's own lower. Here it is on a lower I already have a stamp for



Around Christmas, I picked up a Ruger American Ranch in 300blk. Here it is with a titanium solvent trap attached. I should have my form 1 stamp back for it in about two weeks. When I get the stamp, I will drill out the end cap and form the baffles to make it an 8" suppressor.



The solvent trap





I plan on running the suppressor on the Ruger and 10" upper. I will probably end up submitting for another stamp and build a shorter (6 inch) can for the 10" upper.

So far, my loads consist of two cast bullets, 230gr and 155gr from Lee molds, 125gr Nosler Ballistic Tips, 147gr FMJs and 110gr Barnes Tac-TX bullets. The Barns and Noslers are used for hunting and the others for Plinking.



I powder coat the 230gr bullets and will probably order another 155gr mold and mill out the gas check shank to make it a plain base bullet so I can fire it through the suppressor. I don't want to risk a gas check coming off in the suppressor. I casted, lubed, sized and gas checked about 1000 of the 155gr.'s before I started powder coating. All future casts will be powder coated.

For subsonic rounds (using the 230gr bullet), I've settled on 10.7gr of Accurate 1680 for the AR and 5.7gr. of Unique for the bolt action. Just took the Ruger to the range this morning using the Unique load. I probably will not mess with this load because it shoots good enough. Here is how it shot at 50 yards. I was checking for velocity and stability with that load. I fired 4 shots and had to fire the 5th a little off to the side to make sure the bullets stabilized before they were used in the suppressor.



This will be a very cheap subsonic plinking load considering that factory subsonic rounds are over $1 a round. With the Lee bullet, Unique powder and primers,I can load 1000 of them for $40-$50

So many awesome things to discuss here... is that an SDTA solvent trap?

yes

I've been looking into building one of those for mine. Are you going to use freeze plugs or turn baffles?

I agree on the cheap plinking part. It amazes me people who get into .300 blkout that do not reload.

What kind of powdercoating are you using? I use HF red, but the black definitely looks nice.

I like your ruger american, I've thought about getting a bolt action 300 but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I have a friend that has a Remington sps 700 that was alot of fun to shoot.

I plan on filling it with freeze plugs and no spacers except the blast chamber. It may be a little heavier but I'm looking for max suppression with this one and not really concerned about weight.

If I didn't reload, I would not even consider this caliber.

I bought the powder from a seller on ebay. The dealer is DMC2. Their prices have gone up lately. Will probably but future powder from Powder by the Pound.

How are you applying your powder. I tried Harbor Freight powders but did not get the coverage you did.

I really like the Ruger. It has shot everything I've fed it really well but does not feed real well from the magazine. I emailed Ruger about this over the weekend and waiting to see their response.

I started doing research on this.... Do you have the titanium end caps and thread protectors? Or did you order the carbon steel ones?

After you put the freeze plugs in, will you be able to disasseble? This looks like a really good solution to my wanting a lathe.

I don't want to drop $2500 bucks on a lathe and tooling and such just to make silencers. I am not a machnist or anything and it seems you need really good equipment IOT be able to turn threads. If this has all the threading done already then you could get a cheaper lathe and just turn K-baffles or other kinds of baffles down the road if you can take these apart.

Reloading is the only way to go for .300 blkout. Factory ammo costs are obscene. To me the .300 blkout is the perfect plinking AR since you can cast reliably for it.

I've read really good things on PBTP on castboolits. I use a whipped cream container that is #5 recyclable. It is denoted by a 5 with a triangle around it. I also add airsoft bb's into it IOT build up the static electricity to adhere the powder to the boolit. It takes some playing around with, for the amount of bbs, boolits, and powder to get it to cover correctly. Most of the marks on mine are from picking them out of the container and placing them on a screen basket to put in the toaster oven. I just haven't had a need to experiment because a pound of red is lasting forever....

I didn't even know ruger made a .300 blkout. I had been looking at the CVA scouts which are single shots with bergara barrels. I have a bergara barrel on my inline and its stupid accurate.

Could it be your COAL? The lee subs dont have a great nose ogive profile like most boolits. If you ever go to 300blktalk there are guys designing bullets with better profiles but are getting mixed results.

Yes, I have the titanium end cap and thread protector. They are not listed on SDTA's web site. You have to call to order them. The tubes and caps already come threaded so there is no need to thread anything and the caps can be taken apart at anytime to clean the inside. Really no need to get fancy with the baffles. From all the reading I did, K baffles work best for .22lr and are not as effective for high power rifles. Search "form 1 suppressors" on youtube. There are several videos showing freeze plug cans being shot side by side with factory cans and there is really no difference in sound reduction.

There are several ways to form the freeze plug baffles. Probably the easiest is with a torx bit set. Center drill the plug, press in a small torx bit, then the next size, then next, etc. until you get close to the size opening you need. I plan on using the angled end from a 3 jaw puller then finish it off with a 60 degree lathe centering tool. Once my stamp comes in, I'll post pictures of the process.

I've tried several loads, including factory, but the Ruger continues to have issues feeding. Ruger got back with me this afternoon and is sending another magazine.