..to get the old struggle buggy all purdied up after the winter. Chassis -inner fenders pressure washed, engine and bay cleaned-detailed, the body clayed, some minor buffing here and there, waxed and Solution Finish on all the black vinyl, door handles, mirrors , etc.
Not look'n too awful bad for a 13 year old car with a pickup bed!
She looks good.
I have three questions:
1. What do you use to clean the engine/bay?
2. What does "body clayed" mean?
3. What is Solution Finish?
Sorry for getting back late.
1. Simple Green /water 50-50 mix. I apply is with a garden sprayer, allow to do it's thing for a 10-15 minutes keeping it wet then hose it off. It doesn't eat plastic, wire insulation or turn the aluminum parts white. For grease you can use the SG straight and a brush. I don't let them get that bad so the 50/50 is all I need. For the insulation on the underside of the hood I use the 50/50 mix on a damp microfiber towel.
2. Clay bar removes contaminates embedded in the paint /clearcoat leaving the surface as smooth as glass. For clay bar lube I use Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice. After claying you need to re-apply wax, the clay removes any that was on surface prior. BTW, if you drop the clay on the floor, driveway ,etc toss it otherwise any grit it picks up it will make ugly swirl marks in the paint/clearcoat.
3. Solution Finish is a vinyl -plastic rejuvenator . Unlike dyes or protectents which only coat the surface it penetrates into the pores of the material. It typically it lasts a year. You use very little, a one ounce bottle will generally do three or four vehicles.
Everything I use and how you can find on the world of knowledge...the Internet!
What would a person use to fill or remove many small and very fine scratches in the clear coat that was the result of using a very dirty car wash brush?
Provided they're not into the primer /metal a dual action buffer and a polishing compound. I use a Porter Cable 7346XP with both 3" and or 6" CLEAN foam pads, preferably the Hex Logic pads for the 6 inchers. The 3s are easier to do small areas, door frames and etc. For compound Meguiars Ultimate Compound. About the only way you'll damage the paint/clear is if you drop the buffer on it!
Before buffing I'll wash, remove any tar and clay bar the surface to remove any embedded grit/dirt/grime in the paint/clear coat. I want to buff with the compound not the junk.
For scratches, stone chips and etc into the primer I use Dr. ColorChip. Of those I've tried.,used and thrown in the trash its by far the best and easiest . Its darn near fool proof.