Like I needed something else to do..
Got to thinking about this for a "wish trip" I want to do with my canoe. Also for a couple of places i intend to fish at with the canoe I am rebuilding.
The internet is your friend. Have idea - start looking on the net. Sure enough - this wasn't going to be my million dollar idea... but I had lots of example to look at.
This is what I ended up with:
Above is the almost done version.
Sorry, got ahead of myself and forgot to take pictures of the design and build phase..
Tires - I got mine off E-Bay - $12.99 w/ free shipping. China specials - but they work. 3" wide with bearing hubs (5/8").
About 6' of 1-1/2" Sch 40 PVC pipe
2 ea 1-1/2" PVC sanitary tees - socket
2 ea 1-1/2 PVC tee socket
2 ea 1-1/2 PVC plug (fits inside fitting socket - has flat face)
4 ea 1-1/2 PVC pipe cap
1 ea 1/4" eye bolt w/ machine screw
2 ea Pressed washer 1/4"
1 ea lock washer 1/4"
1 ea cargo strap 1" wide or so
Axel: I used 1/2" all thread rod
4 ea axle size hex nuts
4 ea axle size pressed washers
2 ea Axle size poly hex nut
Due to selection and wheel hub width, I used four bronze bearing sleeves 5/8" x 1/2" (would like to have gotten flanged, but straight was all that was available.
Determine the overall width you need.
Lay out plugs and tees to determine fill piece PVC for axle housing. Make sure the sweep of the sanitary tee is to the outside or wheel side. Also, make sure your wheels will clear the PVC pipe when everything is assembled. Assemble those parts minus the plugs.
Figure out the metal axle length with tires and nuts / washers. Cut to length.
Drill hole in the center of the plug and tap for axle.
Thread to nuts and washer onto one end of the axle then a flat washer. Thread the plug onto the axle until distance to accept wheel is achieved. Tighten then double nuts up to plug and washers.
Repeat on the other side, but tighten nuts and washer against plug - then back plug off the axle. In other words set the axle wheel mounting distance then remove the plug.
Prime and glue the other end into the axle housing.
Prime and glue the other tee socket where rod is extending from. Spin on the other plug priming and gluing just before the socket. Continue to thread the plug on until seated.
Install wheels complete - with bearing races if required.
Cut short pieces of PVC and assemble the second set of tees off the top of the sanitary tees. With the boat bottom up - locate where you want the carrier to rest on the boat. Spin the tees to match the hull. Mark the pipe and tee with pencil to mark the angles. Mark them left and right as well...
. That was a HELPFUL hint.
Also check your height of the pipe coming off the sanitary tee to the other tee. this is where you determine clearance to tires and over all height. Care here is critical.
Make any changes to parts, and glue the top tees to the pipe and sanitary tees (remember those marks!) Once assembled - do a quick check on the boat again. You want those tees to rest flush to the bottom of the boat with the angle or flow of the hull shape.
Here, you also determine the length of the boat supports. I made mine 7" on each side of the tee. Cut and install. Install pipe caps as well.
On one side or the other - dead center of the tee ( there are mold lines on the tee that mark dead center pretty easy to find) drill a hole just under 1/4" on both sides of the tee. Manually thread the eye bolt through these holes. Cut excess off. I placed a pressed washer on the eye side then threaded the bolt in. The thread side had a pressed washer, lock washer and poly lock nut.
Find the similar or just higher location on the other tee. Lay the strap your using across the horizontal center line and mark the outside edges. Draw a line. Repeat on the other side of the tee.
Drill 3/32 or so sized holes across your marks keeping the holes close. Then use the drill bit saw techniques to "route out" the webs between holes. I then inserted a file and cleaned up my slots.
Insert cargo strap through slots and attach as you see fit.
Find a pool noodle with a big hole.
Without to much precision - make sure you left a inch or so over center... take a left over piece of 1-1/2 pipe - lay the noodle on the floor - press pipe into noodle and spin. Watch it - you will go right through both sides!!
This lets a nice round hole. Take a hacksaw blade or something similar and make the hole about 1/2 bigger.
Cut to length to cover top support on cart 100%. Take care to make a smooth and sorta straight cut - split the noodle through the just made hole.
Repeat for the other side.
On the eye bolt side - I just cut a little slot for the eye head to slid into. Once done, the noodle went all the way around and met on the underside. I used aerosol glue (craft shop) but a good rubber cement will work. Glue the edges together (let set up a bit before joining. I also put glue on the end caps and noodle.
On the other side, cut a slot a lot smaller than the cargo strap buckle. Take your time laying out the location of the slot..
Fit the buckle through the noodle. Test for fit and adjust as required.
While the noodle is still on support. Glue the edges and ends. let it tack up then place edges together.
Go back in 3-5 minute increments to make sure edges stay together. If not - repress them together. It takes a bit so the glue to tack up enough sometimes to hold everything together with the poly stuff.
Try it out - your done!
With a bit of thought - you could hitch this to a bike...