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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Switching primers

When you have pet load and only switch primers how much of a deviations would expect as a general rule?
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 03:19 AM
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You just never know !
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 04:47 AM
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I have read somewhere as much as 100 fps.However if you change primers you need to reduce your load and work back up anyhow just to be safe.My guess is quite a few reloaders don't even own a chronograph to even begin to answer that question.That pet load could be on the edge of being over pressure for your gun and a new primer might put it over the edge.Without a chrono you can't know when you are there.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:08 AM
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I have found that switching primers can make a bigger difference than any other singular component change. Like Willip say "you never know".

In a good way switching primers can tighten up a group. More so than an increase or decrease in the powder charge.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 10:58 AM
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I have never been able to use primers to tune a load in the 100 to 500 yardages. In a given powder and bullet combination powder weight, seating depth, and neck tension are the important variables. When fine tuning at longer ranges like 1000 yds. I have been able to fine tune the velocity extrememe spread by changing primers. When first hunting a spot with a bullet powder combination I have found initial groups need only to be 2 shot groups. This saves barrel wear and components. A very important component seldom addressed is gun handling. IT MUST BE VERY CONSISTANT! If your rifle is not properly bedded you might never find a load. In my opinion if you think your tuning with primer change I have serions doubts. Hope this helps point you in a good direction.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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The reason for the question is I have tested no less than 12-15 test loads in each of my rifles over the years and have come up with some loads to my liking; however, I now have a lot of different primers setting on the self which have not been used in my pet loads so wondering what to expect if I change the primers only. I have used generally CCI, but have several Win., Rem. and some Federals.

I know the only sure way is test them at the range. I don't think I would have any pressure problems from switching primers, since most of my loads seem to get the best groups below maximum.

I currently tumble, clean the primer pockets, size the brass as needed to be uniform, set the ogive for each bullet and do my best to shoot a good groups. I keep records of everything I do and shoot back to the early seventies in an effort to improve without wasted duplication.

My goal is to get the best 2 possible loads for each rifle. Most of my rifle shooting now is for pleasure and up to 250 yards. As I generally do most of my deer hunting with archery equipment.

I also have a good supply of different brass.

Therefore, I guess I will load up my pet loads with all the proven components and do some experimenting with the components I have left.

Most of my scopes are from the 70-80 and my eyes are from the forties. I just changed my scope on the 222 Rem. 700 from 6 to ten power.

I know there is another area which I can make improvement is trigger pull, I feel most are to heavy for me to shoot my best. I have neck sizing dies for at lease one rifle, but I have not elected to take that challenge on yet. Bedding is another area I haven't dove deeply into.

Welcome any thoughts you might have and have read appreciate the ones above. Thank you.

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 11:52 AM
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I suggest glassbedding the action and the rear of the recoil lug. All other surfaces of the recoil lug and the barrel should be free floating, not touching the stock. In this rifle you do not need or will you gain an advantage with pillars being installed. Going to higher power error scope was a good addition. While it does not make the gun shoot better it does allow you to see better and maintain a more consistent point of aim. A crisp light trigger in the 1# area would also help.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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What are your thoughts on improving triggers.......Adjust, replacement spring kits or an after market trigger?

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffppc View Post
I suggest glassbedding the action and the rear of the recoil lug. All other surfaces of the recoil lug and the barrel should be free floating, not touching the stock. In this rifle you do not need or will you gain an advantage with pillars being installed. Going to higher power error scope was a good addition. While it does not make the gun shoot better it does allow you to see better and maintain a more consistent point of aim. A crisp light trigger in the 1# area would also help.



I agree with all stated here except for the pillar bedding & here is why.


I have a rifle that was bedded,free floated & shot very well. after 20 plus years of use in all types of weather I could make the
action bind by tightening the action screws. the wood I guess, became soft & allows the screws to seat farther.
with pillars, the action can be tightened & not pulled out of shape, binding the action.
I added pillars & the gun shoots as well as before.


as for triggers, a spring kit or honing the sear & trigger may suit you. an after market trigger is also an option.
it`s all in what you want.


just my 2 cents.........................
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Born2Hunt View Post
What are your thoughts on improving triggers.......Adjust, replacement spring kits or an after market trigger?
All of my rifles except one - I've been able to get sub moa groups by messing with bullets, powder weight, neck sizing, seating depth or whatever except for one. A 700 BDL that I have has the most horrific trigger you've ever felt - Even with a lead sled, I'm lucky to shoot a 1" group at 50 yards let alone 100. I actually have some shotguns that break at less pounds than that rifle. I'm sure if I fix the trigger the groups will tighten up significantly (can't hurt them an that's for sure) - My point is I think a trigger is very important.

I generally don't change primers looking to tighten up a group. I can generally find something that will get me where I want to be which is sub-moa. If I'm there - I'm there - I'm not a bench rest shooter - I hunt with my rifles and shoot just for fun.
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