Originally Posted by Big Elk Hunter
I'm sorry, but you are using the wrong powder.
You need to think of powder - like gasoline and kerosene and Diesel fuel.
Each fuel has it's purpose, and each fuel has it's own octane / cetane number..
Bad analogy. Comparing kerosene & diesel to gasoline is like comparing smokeless powder to black powder.
I'm not an expert, but I have read the opinions of the experts many times, both in reloading manuals and magazines and the occasional reloading bench topic.
One of the goals of reloading your own shells is to properly match the powder, primers and bullets to achieve as much velocity and accuracy as possible.
Just think of a empty shell - as a pop bottle.
When you put soda in a bottle until the bottle is full, regardless of which direction you tip the bottle - there is no gaps in the volume of the liquid in the bottle.
With powder - filling the shell so as to almost compress the powder inside of the shell insures that the shell is full and that the powder does not settle to one end or the other when you aim the rifle and it ensures a uniform burn inside of the shell from one shell to the next.
Agreed. I prefer slow for caliber powders myself. That DOES NOT mean it is necessary to do so.
You never under load a shell - low pressure causes more damage to a gun then does a high pressure. Usually - you cannot get enough powder into a shell - when you use the proper powder to overload the chamber pressure.
Not quite. An overall lack of pressure is not as harmful to a firearm as overpressured. However, improperly reduced loads will damage a firearm. There can be a point between a squib and a properly charged round when their is insufficient initial pressure to ensure reliable forward motion of the projectile. If the initial pressure is such that the projectile becomes lodged in the barrel, not far from the chamber, and there is a reasonable amount of powder left in the case then the subsequent rapid rise in pressure can be enough to cause damage to the firearm. Essentially a rapid overpressure caused by a blockage. Coincidentially the 4895's are excellent reduced charge powders.
Someone here needs to consult a reloading manual and not just try recipes for a certain powder that they found a deal on or was given for free.
Someone needs a little better understanding of internal ballistics and why we have manuals with more than the supposed "optimum" powder.
There is no one universal powder that works equally well in all guns.
The 4895's are about as close as one can get to being universal.