Building a bow, help appreciated - Page 2 - The HuntingPA.com Outdoor Community

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post #11 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 08:53 PM
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

Lets try this.....

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...lertree026.mp4
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post #12 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

Nice rig. Your grid line board servers the same purpose as the pegboard in the one that I recall seeing.

Question: is it ok to momentarily hold the draw on the bow in order to get a good look at the grid to see if the limbs are bending equally? Seems I read something somewhere that you should avoid holding the bow at draw as much as possible.

Spent a little time on the bow this morning before going for a ride (rode down to LAS and ordered some arrows for the Widow). Rounded the edges on the limbs a bit. Glad you said you like flat bellies (on selfbows I mean ) because that's what I like as well. Is the bow then considered an American Flatbow? Also worked on slimming down the handle a bit.

But the cool thing was fooling around with the scrapers; before trying one I couldn't get my mind around how the thing would work, but man, the touch and feel of using it and the smooth way it scrapes off a shaving is way too cool, I'm hooked.

Next deal is to get my fades a little better (less steep) and trim the limbs to length. Then I'll be ready for some serious tillering.

Lo
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post #13 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 01:53 AM
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

After you work the limbs its should be fine to hold the bow AT THAT DRAW DEPTH for a short period of time. Dont overdraw and hold, it will cause chrysals in the belly.
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post #14 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 12:13 PM
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

Yep, that's the one I copied thanks again Toxo This thread is getting me moving again. Thanks for getting it started loridr.

I have two semi finished bows one is a red oak board bow and the other from a hickory stave. Neither turned out the way I wanted so I never finished them completely. I am going to try a hickory backed ash bow next. I also have an osage stave and another hickory stave I'm saving until I am a little more confident.

Anyone have any pointers or experience with backed board bows I'm all ears.
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post #15 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

It was too wet to work outside most of the day but I did manage to work on the fades, they are much better now. Gonna go on 3 Rivers site in a minute and order a tillering string and some other stuff.

JK, glad to here I got ya movin' again.
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post #16 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

Tox,

Spent a little time this morning working on the bow.

Laid out a new center line on the belly and trued up the limbs for width and taper, they are pretty dead on now. Also trimmed the tips to my target length of 68Ē.

Pics and questions, please comment:

Handle and fades: yesterday worked on the fades to make them a little less steep, how are they looking now?



Potential trouble spots. This one is about 10Ē from tip on one edge of one limb. Not sure how close Iíll get to it as I get close to tiller, current thickness at that spot is 5/8Ē and as you can see its about dead center on the edge. I know itís hard to predict at this point, but do you think Iíll end up down to that point as I shave the limb?



This is the opposite limb. As you can see there is some ďcharacterĒ in this limb causing it to vary in thickness at several spots. While I donít anticipate a problem here, Iím not certain how you handle this while tillering. Do you just ignore it and evenly remove material from the belly, or is it necessary to remove additional material in these spots to get an even thickness in relation to adjacent areas?



Last pic is just a full edge view of the bow as it now sits and shows a good look at the natural deflex. Iím assuming it was a good idea to take advantage of it, correct?



Comments appreciated.

Lo
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post #17 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 05:25 PM
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

That worries me a bit. I would try to leave it a bit flat (thicker) in that area-about 1" or more on each side of that discrepancy, during draw. I'm afraid too much bend there will crack it. However leaving that area a bit stiff or thicker during tillering will keep it together longer. It may disappear during tiller then you can round that area in symmetry to the rest of the limb. Any other pics of that? Is it on both sides?

I like my fades to have a longer taper which give a bit of protection against a hinge. Virtually every hinge I've ever seen on a selfbow attempt has been in the 1/3 of the limb closest to the handle. It's now just a habit of mine. My handles are 4" What is yours on the back?

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post #18 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 10:51 PM
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

I would gladly help you with your bow, but I can't explain how I do things. I would show you anything I could if you want. Welcome to the selfbow addiction!

You can't get em from the couch.
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post #19 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-25-2012, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

Where are you located, Hawg?
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post #20 of 138 (permalink) Old 02-26-2012, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Building a bow, help appreciated

Quote:
That worries me a bit. I would try to leave it a bit flat (thicker) in that area-about 1" or more on each side of that discrepancy, during draw. I'm afraid too much bend there will crack it. However leaving that area a bit stiff or thicker during tillering will keep it together longer. It may disappear during tiller then you can round that area in symmetry to the rest of the limb. Any other pics of that? Is it on both sides?
It does not run through the width of the limb (the opposing edge is clear), but it's hard to tell how far into the limb it does run. The bummer is it's exactly dead center in the thickness of the limb. There is about 5/16" clear wood below the defect. I know there's no definitive answer, but how thin do limbs typically tiller down to at the tips? My limbs are 1-1/2" wide at the fades and my tips are currently 7/16" wide. Do you think I'll get down below that defect shooting for a 45# pull?

Quote:
I like my fades to have a longer taper which give a bit of protection against a hinge. Virtually every hinge I've ever seen on a selfbow attempt has been in the 1/3 of the limb closest to the handle. It's now just a habit of mine. My handles are 4" What is yours on the back?
Below is a pic with measurements of the handle and fades, I do still have room to adjust if you think I should. (Note: the fades may appear steeper due to the thickness of the handle, it's currently 1-7/8" thick.)

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